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Welcome to the third wave of Philadelphia dining, an era in which locals are more likely to chat you up about their favorite chorizo tacos, wild-yeasted ales, or tasting menu than anything cheesesteak. Yes, the famous sandwich is still around (eat one if you must) but is slowly losing traction to its distant cousin, the roast pork. This is the Philly sandwich to try, be it a traditional rendition at John’s or DiNic’s in Reading Terminal Market or a new-school take, like the one topped with lacto-fermented broccoli rabe at High Street on Market.
Speaking of Old City’s High Street, its chef/partner, Eli Kulp, represents a group of Philadelphia chefs that has had a massive impact on the dining scene in the last few years: the ex–New Yorkers. Like Kulp, Peter Serpico of Serpico, Eli Collins of Pub and Kitchen, Greg Vernick of Vernick Food & Drink and other talented former 212-ers have shifted their careers here from some of NYC’s finest kitchens and restaurant groups. Even in East Passyunk and Fishtown, white-hot neighborhoods that are dethroning Center City as Philly’s dining nucleus, inflated rents are bargains compared to those in the Big Apple.
The recent influx of out-of-town chefs complements Philly’s homegrown talent. This has always been a scene that has fostered and supported its own, and the last several years have seen young chefs rising through the kitchens of Stephen Starr, Marc Vetri, and Georges Perrier and going on to debut compelling, idiosyncratic, solo projects. Like Pierre Calmels, who left the storied (now closed) Le Bec-Fin to open tiny Bibou in Bella Vista, and his LBF successor, Nicholas Elmi, who won Top Chef after opening Laurel on East Passyunk. (To give you an idea of the depth of talent in the 215, Elmi is the second Philly chef to win Top Chef.) And then there’s Michael Solomonov, a former Vetri capo who went on to found Zahav, the restaurant that ignited America’s passion for Israeli cuisine, and win a James Beard Award. Solo (as he’s affectionately known here) is in conscientious empire-building mode with longtime business partner, Steve Cook, and mentoring a new generation of young chefs. You can still catch him working the bread station at Zahav most nights, between annual research trips to Israel and surfing breaks at the Jersey Shore.
The Israeli, Iraqi, Turkish, and Yemenite recipes on the menu at Zahav are just a handful of the cuisines represented in this multiethnic town. Philadelphia has a long history as a city of immigrants, from Western Europeans in the early 20th century to the Vietnamese, Mexicans, and Africans of today. Chinatown reigns as the city’s hub of hand-pulled noodles, breakneck dim sum, and siphon coffee before it was cool, while Middle Eastern, Ethiopian, and Senegalese hideaways occupy tree-lined storefronts and old banks in West Philly. Vietnamese pho halls and bakeries congregate along Washington Avenue in South Philly, also home to the city’s vibrant Mexican population. In the Italian Market, many of the old businesses have given way to industrious taquerias. You can follow the trail of fresh-pressed tortilla crumbs from Bella Vista down into East Passyunk, a hood where it’s not uncommon to hear Spanish, Vietnamese, and five different dialects of Italian just walking down the street.
Cakey doughnuts are the star at this local-to-Philadelphia chain run by chef Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook of the celebrated CookNSolo restaurants. The menu includes both a "fancy" doughnut menu, which has daily and seasonal specials, and a hot doughnut menu with includes staples that are available throughout the year. In addition to doughnuts, the shop is also known for its Korean-style fried chicken and fried-chicken sandwich.
A Spruce Hill staple, Manakeesh specializes in the Lebanese flatbreads of the same name. Served warm from the oven, the puffy, round loaves come with both traditional toppings (za’atar, kafta) and nontraditional ones (turkey bacon–egg–cheese, cheesesteak), which speak to the diverse crowd that fills the café-style space. Encased behind glass along the front counter, fresh-baked Lebanese pastries are some of your best bets. Stop in for a snack or a full sit-down, share-many-dishes-style meal.
The bright and cheerful one-room ice cream shop matches the happy feelings that accompany a cup, cone, or ice cream sandwich from Weckerly's. Local dairy, fruit, herbs, and eggs are the base for the shop's creamy and decadent flavors, which change to match the season (with the exception of a few staples).
A photo-ready interior invites guests to La Colombe's world headquarters, a sprawling space covered in artsy graffiti and crusty brick walls, that offers food, drinks, and ample space for hanging out. Communal tables stream down the center of the space, so grab your spot before you order at the counter: savory scones, sandwiches on excellent baguettes, sweet pastries, and coffee, of course. Ask for a Black & Tan (half Pure Black cold-brew, half nitro-draught latte) and no one will know you’re not a local.
When you're ready for an atmospheric break, stop by Anthony's Italian Coffee House in the heart of the Italian Market. Here, to the strains of Frank Sinatra, you can sample a fresh panino with prosciutto and mozzarella or indulge in homemade cannoli or gelato imported from Italy. Enjoy your espresso on the umbrella-covered 9th Street patio when the weather permits.
It's all about the ice cream, hot fudge, and homemade whipped cream at this charming ice cream parlor. They scoop Philly's own Bassetts Ice Cream (the country's oldest ice cream brand), make fabulous sundaes, and stay open late in the summer. The bakery is pretty standard.
"Good food, good drink, good karma" is the slogan of this well-worn, no-frills café in Fairmount Park that focuses on fresh, healthy local food produced sustainably and prepared on-site, and it delivers. Outdoor and indoor seating make this a convenient choice for coffee and fare such as breakfast burritos and egg sandwiches; wraps, smoothies, deli sandwiches, and a good veggie burger; and desserts and snacks. Free parking at Lloyd Hall is convenient, and seasonal bike rentals from Wheel Fun Rentals are steps away.
This two-level gourmet shop has a dazzling array of prepared foods, mouthwatering pastries, and creamy gelato. Sampling the wares can make for a good snack, but if you require something more substantial, grab a sandwich or something from their hot bar, or sit down in the café upstairs.
In 2011, the owners of the acclaimed Zahav partnered with a team of Philly food entrepreneurs to open the first Federal Donuts, and Philly quickly fell in love with the whimsical doughnut-and-fried chicken concept. The mini-chain now runs many shops throughout the city, but this tiny flagship, on an unassuming corner in quiet Pennsport, is still going strong. FedNuts, as locals affectionately call it, offers both hot fresh and “fancy” doughnuts in an ever-changing array of flavors, plus fried chicken prepped in a variety of styles (za’atar-dusted; Korean-style chili garlic). They do excellent coffee and simple sandwiches, too, making it an everyday stop for neighborhood folks.
Open all day, Gran Coffee L'Aquila is the perfect spot for grabbing an on-the-go cup of house-roasted espresso first thing in the morning or sitting down for a nightcap and dessert at the end of the day. They also serve panini, which can be eaten at one of their sidewalk tables or taken to go, as well as a full lunch and dinner menu and award-winning gelato in flavors like torrone (nougat), citrus-vanilla, and cannoli.
A mix of farmers' market, specialty-goods stands, and eateries with indoor and outdoor seating, this is an excellent lunch or late-afternoon meal destination. The best options include Chestnut Hill Brewing Company (beer and pizza), Chicko Tako (Korean tacos), and the Saigon Noodle Bar. Plus, you can grab giant hoagies from Liberty Kitchen, Persian dishes from Shundeez Market, and steamed dumplings from Momos of Tibet. Permanently housed behind the Chestnut Hill Hotel, the bulk of the market is only open Thursday through Saturday, but most of the take-out vendors are also open on Wednesday and Sunday and in the evenings you can enjoy a lively outdoor area with occasional live music. For more traditional fruits and vegetables, the Chestnut Hill Farmers' Market sets up shop outdoors on Winston Road between Germantown Avenue and Mermaid Lane on Saturday mornings from 9:30 to 1.
On a residential street in Fairmount, this small, bright small corner café with white-painted walls and large windows makes a good stop for coffee drinks (or tea) and pastries or for tartines, sandwiches, and salads that rise a notch above the usual. Musette has a pleasant neighborhood vibe, but it can get busy on weekends.
Stop here for delicious ice cream served in small, pricey scoops—including many nondairy options—and some indulgent sundae concoctions. The fun part is playing video games displayed on two screens mounted on a wall across a narrow alley, while inside, four joysticks allow up to four players to go head-to-head. In wintertime, you can enjoy homemade hot chocolate with a scoop of ice cream in it.
This Gotham ice cream superpower now has three locations in the City of Brotherly Love (there's also one in Rittenhouse Square and Fishtown). It's a great spot to satisfy your sweet tooth with classic ice cream flavors like cookies and cream and mint chip or more inventive options like Earl Grey and honeycomb; there are vegan flavors, too, as well as chocolate chip cookies, cookie sandwiches, sundaes, and milkshakes.
