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Welcome to the third wave of Philadelphia dining, an era in which locals are more likely to chat you up about their favorite chorizo tacos, wild-yeasted ales, or tasting menu than anything cheesesteak. Yes, the famous sandwich is still around (eat one if you must) but is slowly losing traction to its distant cousin, the roast pork. This is the Philly sandwich to try, be it a traditional rendition at John’s or DiNic’s in Reading Terminal Market or a new-school take, like the one topped with lacto-fermented broccoli rabe at High Street on Market.
Speaking of Old City’s High Street, its chef/partner, Eli Kulp, represents a group of Philadelphia chefs that has had a massive impact on the dining scene in the last few years: the ex–New Yorkers. Like Kulp, Peter Serpico of Serpico, Eli Collins of Pub and Kitchen, Greg Vernick of Vernick Food & Drink and other talented former 212-ers have shifted their careers here from some of NYC’s finest kitchens and restaurant groups. Even in East Passyunk and Fishtown, white-hot neighborhoods that are dethroning Center City as Philly’s dining nucleus, inflated rents are bargains compared to those in the Big Apple.
The recent influx of out-of-town chefs complements Philly’s homegrown talent. This has always been a scene that has fostered and supported its own, and the last several years have seen young chefs rising through the kitchens of Stephen Starr, Marc Vetri, and Georges Perrier and going on to debut compelling, idiosyncratic, solo projects. Like Pierre Calmels, who left the storied (now closed) Le Bec-Fin to open tiny Bibou in Bella Vista, and his LBF successor, Nicholas Elmi, who won Top Chef after opening Laurel on East Passyunk. (To give you an idea of the depth of talent in the 215, Elmi is the second Philly chef to win Top Chef.) And then there’s Michael Solomonov, a former Vetri capo who went on to found Zahav, the restaurant that ignited America’s passion for Israeli cuisine, and win a James Beard Award. Solo (as he’s affectionately known here) is in conscientious empire-building mode with longtime business partner, Steve Cook, and mentoring a new generation of young chefs. You can still catch him working the bread station at Zahav most nights, between annual research trips to Israel and surfing breaks at the Jersey Shore.
The Israeli, Iraqi, Turkish, and Yemenite recipes on the menu at Zahav are just a handful of the cuisines represented in this multiethnic town. Philadelphia has a long history as a city of immigrants, from Western Europeans in the early 20th century to the Vietnamese, Mexicans, and Africans of today. Chinatown reigns as the city’s hub of hand-pulled noodles, breakneck dim sum, and siphon coffee before it was cool, while Middle Eastern, Ethiopian, and Senegalese hideaways occupy tree-lined storefronts and old banks in West Philly. Vietnamese pho halls and bakeries congregate along Washington Avenue in South Philly, also home to the city’s vibrant Mexican population. In the Italian Market, many of the old businesses have given way to industrious taquerias. You can follow the trail of fresh-pressed tortilla crumbs from Bella Vista down into East Passyunk, a hood where it’s not uncommon to hear Spanish, Vietnamese, and five different dialects of Italian just walking down the street.
If good roots can make a pizza place, then Pizza Shackamaxon has it made. Housed in the original location of the much-loved Pizzeria Beddia, Shackamaxon slings pizza by the slice and by the pie. They pride themselves on being a slice-first pizza shop in order to serve the most people possible. You can order whole pies to go, but in-person only (no online orders, and there's no phone for orders). Their staples are plain pizza, pepperoni, and the doughy tomato pie on focaccia.
The second iteration of Pizzeria, just blocks away from the original location, is a different world, with more than 100 seats, the ability to make reservations, and a larger menu that goes beyond pizza—think natural wines, flavorful salads, and creamier-than-you-can-ever-imagine soft serve. Pizza is still the focal point, though, with options like a classic red pie with pepperoni, a red-sauce-based anchovy pizza, and the white pie, made with local cream and topped with garlic and greens. When it first opened, it was tough to even get a reservation at Pizzeria Beddia, but these days things have calmed down significantly. For dining enthusiasts, the tucked-away private hoagie room is a fun group option that features off-the-menu hoagies.
Championing craft beer well before it was cool, this laid-back Newbold tavern set the bar for Philly’s gastropub boom way back in 2003. SPTR’s ever-rotating 14 tap selections, plus cask ales and a nice bottle selection, hit local, national, and international notes that nicely accompany a menu that reaches well beyond the expected pub grub with creative snacks, sandwiches, and seasonal specials conceived to celebrate local and organic products and produce. The kitchen pays ample mind to vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free guests, too; it’s this accommodating spirit that makes a neighborhood bar.
Chef Cristina Martinez specializes in barbacoa, the succulent, slow-cooked lamb of Martinez’s Mexican homeland. The staff chop the meat with cleavers and pile it on fluffy corn tortillas, which you top at the salsa station with strips of fried cactus paddle, onion-laced pickled jalapeño escabeche, chopped cilantro, and fresh lime; go early, as they usually sell out of barbacoa. A flavorful consommé soup made from the lamb’s drippings is a must-order, too.
Fishtown’s official transformation into a foodie haven came in the form of Suraya, a Levant all-day café with an interior that sends design buffs spinning. The 12,000-square-foot expanse is composed of a coffee shop slinging Lebanese chai tea topped with crushed pistachios and rose petals, drip coffee, pastries, and more; a sit-down area for lunch, dinner, and brunch; a bar overlooking the buzzing kitchen; and a picturesque outdoor garden. By night, the chefs and bartenders show off their chops with grilled meats and fish slathered in hard-to-ever-forget sauces and rubs, cold and hot meze options, and a drinks list featuring Levantine spirits, as well as wine and beer from around the world. Those who want to try a little of everything should opt for the four-course dinner tasting menu or the meze plate during lunch and brunch.
Aimee Olexy's Talula's Table in Kennett Square was an unlikely phenomenon; the little country market had a months-long backlog of reservations for its lone farmhouse table. Olexy's urban extension of that runaway success is a sprawling, high-ceilinged space decorated with quotes by Alice Waters printed on the walls, a courtyard with a garden that glows under twinkly lights, and an elegant seasonal menu. The knowledgeable servers do a great job explaining interesting cheese boards with names like \"The Master Class.\"
The formidable chef Greg Vernick used his Jersey Shore vacations as inspiration for Vernick Fish, an oyster bar reminiscent of the restaurants that dot the Jersey Shore—albeit with an elevated vibe. Located on the first floor of the soaring Comcast Technology Center, the seafood-focused restaurant serves lunch and dinner daily with a special focus on raw fish and fish-forward tartares. The floor-to-ceiling windows along the Arch Street side of the restaurant allow for prime people-watching, and sun-soaked tables evoke the feeling of the Jersey Shore. For the non–fish eater, a selection of curated chicken, steak, and crispy veggies is available.
South Jersey native and James Beard–award winning chef Greg Vernick spent the bulk of his career opening restaurants around the world for Jean-Georges Vongerichten. When he and his wife, Julie, wanted to do their own place, they came back to the Delaware Valley and made waves with their bustling (but intimate) modern American restaurant, whose ever-changing menu features delicious things on toast (avocado, foie gras, Maryland crab), Asian influences, and large-format proteins (whole chicken or rack of lamb) cooked in a wood-burning oven. Expect it all rendered in thoughtful, joyful expressions, and served by a vivacious staff.
Owner Benny Lai took this humble noodle shop founded by his immigrant parents and built it into a chic restaurant with an upstairs lounge serving small plates and wacky cocktails like the Bachelor’s Downfall and the Flaming Volcano (two straws included). In the dining room the best bets are the crispy spring rolls, salted squid, barbecue platter, and soups with rice noodles. Don't get this restaurant confused with the competing Vietnam Palace across the street.
The bright and cheerful one-room ice cream shop matches the happy feelings that accompany a cup, cone, or ice cream sandwich from Weckerly's. Local dairy, fruit, herbs, and eggs are the base for the shop's creamy and decadent flavors, which change to match the season (with the exception of a few staples).
When the Reading Company opened its train shed in 1892, it was the only one in the country with a market tucked away in its cellar. The trains are long gone, but the food remains. And while disagreeing over the best cheesesteak is a popular pastime in Philly, pretty much everyone can agree on pancakes at the Dutch Eating Place, the roast pork sandwich at DiNic's, whoopie pies at the Flying Monkey, and double chocolate-chip cookies at Famous 4th Street. Recent years have seen worthy newcomers to the entrenched mix: German deli Wursthaus Schmitz, Valley Shepherd Creamery's grilled cheese counter, and La Divisa Meats, for example. Get here early to beat the lunch rush. Seventy-five-minute tours every Wednesday and Saturday highlight the market's history and offerings (call 215/545–8007 to make a reservation).
A photo-ready interior invites guests to La Colombe's world headquarters, a sprawling space covered in artsy graffiti and crusty brick walls, that offers food, drinks, and ample space for hanging out. Communal tables stream down the center of the space, so grab your spot before you order at the counter: savory scones, sandwiches on excellent baguettes, sweet pastries, and coffee, of course. Ask for a Black & Tan (half Pure Black cold-brew, half nitro-draught latte) and no one will know you’re not a local.
The opening of this hip, industrial-chic trattoria by chef Marc Vetri rendered his talents more accessible to those who don't have the foresight to make reservations months in advance at his celebrated eponymous restaurant nearby. The small plates of Roman comfort food by longtime chef Brad Spence feature interesting elevated takes on Roman classics like tonarelli cacio e pepe, trippa alla Romana, and rigatoni all'amatriciana. Try to grab one of the six first-come, first-served stools at the chef's counter to watch the James Beard–award-winning action.
The menu at this popular Center City location includes a huge selection of crisp dosas as well as other regional specialties like mutton (prepared several different ways), chicken kurma (a curried chicken dish), biryani (rice dish), and plenty of vegetarian options. Tiffin specials, which include a couple of dishes, plus a drink and dessert, make for a good lunch, and the chai and filter coffee are both excellent pick-me-ups.
When you're ready for an atmospheric break, stop by Anthony's Italian Coffee House in the heart of the Italian Market. Here, to the strains of Frank Sinatra, you can sample a fresh panino with prosciutto and mozzarella or indulge in homemade cannoli or gelato imported from Italy. Enjoy your espresso on the umbrella-covered 9th Street patio when the weather permits.
Far below the Ritz-Carlton's 140-foot-tall rotunda sits this Latin-inspired grill by chef Richard Sandoval, who creates meals that match the grandeur and excitement of the historic building. Many visit Aqimero for its wood-fired meats and fish, as well as its endless Champagne weekend brunch.
This charming French (Alsatian-inspired, more specifically) bistro pub satisfies both the escargot, moules frites, cassoulet, and duck-loving crowd as well as the mahi mahi and hamburger types. There's just enough atmosphere that you'll want to dress up a little and look good, but it's casual enough to always be inviting.
This buzzing Mediterranean tapas joint has inspired an almost religious devotion among nearly every demographic of Philadelphian. Diners happily stuff themselves into the cramped tables at this long, narrow eatery for a fix of the cheese boards, the egg-and-truffle pizza, and the house-made charcuterie. But above all, the salted caramel budino (a classic Italian pudding)—with so much demand, chef Marcie Turney figured out how to sell it online in a six-pack and turn it into ice-cream pops in the summer—is heavenly. If you don't have a reservation, try and snag the bar and chef's counter, which are first come, first served.
Generous portions of Italian cuisine are served in the cozy brick-walled dining room of this historic early-18th-century granary. The menu features a number of old-world classics, alongside modern versions of pasta and seafood and meat dishes like rack of lamb, grilled swordfish, and veal saltimbocca. There's a robust vegan menu available and a wide array of salads, including the popular Caesar salad made tableside. The wine list is also highly acclaimed; wine-tasting events are available, so check the website for details.
Converted from a private club with blacked-out windows, this Dublin-style pub has been packing them in for rivers of Irish draft and kitchen specialties. Guinness-battered fish-and-chips could have been produced on the \"auld sod,\" and the malt vinegar to sprinkle over it all does little to dampen the crisp crust. The first-floor bar is noisy and spirited—show up before happy hour to snag a seat—but the mood gets a bit quieter as you climb the steps to the dining room or walk downstairs to the basement bar.
A relatively new addition to the Manayunk dining scene offers what may be best described as American pleasure food—shrimp and grits, short ribs, fried chicken and biscuits, and bar/bistro food standards—all prepared with inventive flourishes. Rare for the area, big windows and high ceilings provide an expansiveness and style that is both throwback and modern. The atmosphere is more party than intimate, so it's best for when you're in the mood for a lively night out, not a marriage proposal. Their brunch is also recommended.
Located along Philly's legendary Headhouse Square, Bloomsday’s modern, eclectic menu features a wide assortment of large and small plates suitable for sharing, as well as hearty, seasonal, and farm-to-table specialties like baba ghanoush, sweet-and-spicy wings, fish-and-chips, and beef stew. Fans keep returning to this friendly, stylish restaurant for the Bloomsday dry-aged burger and an array of tinned fish plates, which include sardines, tuna, mussels, and octopus. The food here is accompanied by a robust wine list, so be sure to wander into the on-site bottle shop for some lesser-known vintages.
It's all about the ice cream, hot fudge, and homemade whipped cream at this charming ice cream parlor. They scoop Philly's own Bassetts Ice Cream (the country's oldest ice cream brand), make fabulous sundaes, and stay open late in the summer. The bakery is pretty standard.
Philadelphia chef-darling Jose Garces's beachy, fast-casual spot in the City of Brotherly Love serves Baja Peninsula–inspired fare ordered at the counter and eaten in or taken away. Tacos, burritos, and margaritas rule the menu, but Buena Bowls such as the adobo chicken and red chile short rib are good choices, too, as are the happy–hour specials.
One of restaurateur Stephen Starr's many ventures is housed in an old wood-paneled and marbled brokerage (from which it borrows its name). Here the dishes are traditional rather than fancy (wedge salad, filet Oscar), portions are hefty, and the sides classic (green beans amandine, creamed spinach). A pair of showstopper chandeliers, a New Yorker–style mural depicting tony pooches clad in pencil skirts and smoking robes, and leather banquettes skew closely to the restaurant's avowed 1940s supper club aesthetic.
Housed inside a former greenhouse, Cake is a refined setting for breakfast and lunch, where light streams in through the greenhouse glass and a fountain occupies the center of the room. The menu offers a number of tasty, fresh salads to complement the atmosphere, yet also serves a Philly cheesesteak marsala and a croque monsieur brushed with apricot mustard for those who want heartier fare. The sweets and pastries are still a highlight at this former bakery.
Feeding Philly since the 1940s, Campo's is a respected name in the city's sandwich and cheesesteak game. Serving a variety of those traditional Philly favorites, Campo's also offers plenty of other hoagies, hot and cold sandwiches, and even a few vegan options.
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