Fodor's Expert Review Grüner

Grüner means "greener" in German, and this sleek West End restaurant with angular furniture and blond-wood tables and chairs focuses strongly on seasonal Northwest produce and modern interpretations of recipes culled from throughout verdant Germany's Alps, forests, and river valleys. Start, perhaps, with the Swabian maultaschen, a hearty ravioli in a fragrant beef broth filled with beef, pork, spinach, and onion. Then consider traditional choucroute garnie with homemade meats, or quark spaetzle served with Black Forest ham, leeks, zucchini, hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, and crème fraîche. Available only at Grüner's bar, the burger topped with smoked bacon, fontina, pickled red onions, aioli, and homemade ketchup is one of the best in town. Be sure to check out the terrific wine list with its emphasis on German, Austrian, and northern Italian wines; Grüner Veltliner is well represented, of course. Sister establishment Kask, next door, is a hip and cozy craft-cocktail lounge featuring simpler bar snacks.