Fodor's Expert Review Ava Gene's

This highly acclaimed Roman-inspired Italian eatery—with a buzzy dining room with a vaulted ceiling and two long rows of banquette seats—ranks among the top tables in town both in popularity and quality. The menu emphasizes regional, home-style recipes from throughout Italy, but focuses on local produce—you could make an impressive feast of three or four giardini (gardens) sides, such as melon with tomatillos, ground cherries, and prosciutto, while the satisfyingly hearty mains might include tagliatelle with chicken ragù or lamb grilled with artichokes and celery root.