Olivero
Chef Sunny Gerhart helms one of the state's best oyster bars (St. Roch, in Raleigh), but for his signature restaurant melding Spanish and Italian cuisine, he chose an old brick former dry cleaning building in Wilmington, now outfitted with leather booths, gold-top bars, and upscale psychedelia. Its 2023 opening elevated the city's dining scene, raising the bar with an open-fire grill that roasts nduja (spreadable pork sausage)-stuffed dates, charred Brussels sprouts with pancetta and pecorino, and filets of vermilion snapper with sofrito (a sauce made from sweet peppers, onions, and garlic). The menu is broken into four parts: tapas, salads, pasta (all house-made), and heartier protein dishes. You'll be too full for dessert, but order the budino (Italian-style pudding) topped with toasted marshmallow cream anyway.