Izanami
Set in the pine-scented foothills northeast of town, the ethereal boutique resort and spa Ten Thousand Waves has always cultivated a tranquil Japanese aesthetic, and its on-site restaurant is no exception. The menu is izakaya-style and features an extensive list of sakes and shareable small plates—two or three per person is typically sufficient; highlights include roasted mushrooms in a rich tamari butter sauce, grilled avocado with nori sea salt and fresh wasabi, and pork belly tacos. The burgers, salads, and desserts are also dependably delicious. Sushi is not served, but seafood does appear on the occasional omakase menu, tasting like it just leapt out of the sea. Paper lanterns hang from the lofty, pitched ceiling, and a traditional tatami room is available for patrons seeking a completely authentic vibe. Even the washrooms, outfitted with the latest in lavatory technology, are more Land of the Rising Sun than Land of Enchantment. Service can be spotty, but the food is consistently excellent.