Fodor's Expert Review Carnevino Italian Steakhouse

The giant bronze steer just inside the front door of Chef Mario Batali's handsome restaurant attests to the primary offering: melt-in-your-mouth beef. Steaks here are dry-aged, grilled until the crust is slightly charred, then carved table-side by knowledgeable, attentive servers. A favorite appetizer is the steak tartare, egg-free and chopped to order. Fresh pastas, seafood, organic veal and pork, and Colorado lamb are offered, as well a pretheater menu. The fine wines are complemented by an equally impressive list of other spirits, including beers, bourbons, and rums. When the bread arrives, be sure to try the lardo, a savory spread made from pork fat, ginger, allspice, and rosemary. The adjoining bar and more casual taverna serve lighter fare daily, including lunch, and are open from noon until midnight.