21 Best Sights in Molokai, Hawaii

With its narrow rock walls arching out from the shoreline, Alii is typical of the numerous fishponds that define southern Molokai. Many were built around the 13th century under the direction of powerful alii (chiefs), who were typically the only ones allowed to eat the harvest from the ponds. This early type of aquaculture, particular to Hawaii, exemplifies the ingenuity of Native Hawaiians. One or more openings were left in the wall, where gates called makaha were installed. These gates allowed seawater and tiny fish to enter the enclosed pond but kept larger predators out. The tiny fish would then grow too big to get out. At one time there were 62 fishponds around Molokai's coast. Visits are available only via guided tours with Ka Honua Momona International with a recommended donation of $25 per person; make online reservations. Each third Saturday of the month is a community work day, where volunteers can assist in restoration efforts.

The Solatorio ohana (family) leads hikes through the valley, the oldest recorded habitation on Molokai. It is home to two sacrificial temples and many historic sites. Inhabitants grew taro and fished from 650 until the 1960s when an enormous flood wiped out the taro patches and forced old-timers to abandon their traditional lifestyle. Now, a new generation of Hawaiians has begun the challenging task of restoring the taro fields. Much of this work involves rerouting streams to flow through carefully engineered level ponds called loi. Taro plants, with their big, dancing leaves, grow in the submerged mud of the loi, where the water is always cool and flowing. Hawaiians believe that the taro plant is their ancestor and revere it both as sustenance and as a spiritual necessity. The 3.4-mile round-trip valley hike, which goes to Moaula Falls, a 250-foot cascade, is rated intermediate to advanced and includes two moderate river crossings (so your feet will get wet). A $75 fee per adult supports restoration efforts.

One of the island's few formal recreation areas, this 233-acre retreat sits at a 1,000-foot elevation. A short path through an ironwood forest leads to Kalaupapa Lookout, a magnificent overlook with views of the town of Kalaupapa, a national historical park, and the 1,664-foot-high sea cliffs protecting it. Informative plaques have facts about leprosy, Saint Damien, and the colony. The park is also the site of Kaule O Nanahoa (Phallus of Nanahoa), where women in old Hawaii would come to the rock to enhance their fertility; it is said some still do. Because the rock is a sacred site, be respectful and don't deface the boulders. The park is well maintained, with trails, camping facilities, restrooms, and picnic tables.

One of the most sensational beaches in Hawaii, Papohaku is a 3-mile-long strip of white sand—so much so that Honolulu once purchased bargeloads of it to replenish the sand at Waikiki Beach. A shady beach park just inland is the site of the Ka Hula Piko Festival, held each year in May. The park is also a great sunset-facing spot that's perfect for a rustic afternoon barbecue. A park ranger patrols the area periodically.  Swimming is not recommended, except on exceptionally calm summer days, as there's a dangerous undertow. Amenities: showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; walking.

Built in 1877, this fully restored, three-room sugar mill is a testament to Molokai's agricultural history that's next to the Molokai Museum and is usually included in museum tours. Several interesting machines from the past are on display, including a mule-driven cane crusher and a steam engine. The museum contains changing exhibits on Molokai's early history. A current highlight is an incredible photography exhibit that showcases the people of and life in Kalaupapa; viewing the exhibit and speaking with docents is a great way to learn more about the community if the Kalaupapa National HIstorical Park is closed during your visit. In addition, the museum gift shop sells unique, locally made items.

Standing together along the highway are seven houses of worship with primarily Native Hawaiian congregations. Notice the unadorned, boxlike architecture so similar to missionary homes.

The vigorous water that gouged the steep, spectacular Halawa Valley also carved out two adjacent bays. Accumulations of coarse sand and river rock have created some protected pools that are good for wading or floating around. You might see surfers, but it's not wise to entrust your safety to the turbulent open ocean along this coast. Most people come here to hang out and absorb the beauty of Halawa Valley. The valley itself is private property, so do not wander without a guide. Amenities: toilets. Best for: solitude.

Although the mid-1970s Kaluakoi Hotel and Golf Club is closed and forlorn, some nice condos and a gift shop are operating nearby. Kepuhi Beach, the white-sand beach along the coast, is worth a visit.

A natural harbor used by small cargo ships during the 19th century and a favorite fishing spot for locals, Kamalo Harbor is a quick stop worth making to take in the quiet calm and hang out with shorebirds; look for the "Drive Slow" signs just before the highway bends. This area is also the location of St. Joseph's Church, a tiny white church built by Saint Damien of the Kalaupapa colony in the 1880s.

From far away, this spot looks like a sea of coconut trees. Closer up, you can see that the tall stately palms are planted in long rows leading down to the sea. This is a remnant of one of the last surviving royal groves planted for Prince Lot, who ruled Hawaii as King Kamehameha V from 1863 until his death in 1872. The grove is planted on private property, so stay outside of the perimeter fence.

Central Molokai's main town looks like a classic 1940s movie set. Along the its main drag is a cultural grab bag of restaurants and shops, and its friendly residents will supply directions or maybe even "talk story." Preferred dress is shorts and a tank top, and no one typically wears anything fancier than a cotton skirt or aloha shirt.

Once bustling with barges exporting pineapples, these docks now host visiting boats and the regular barge from Oahu. Fishing, sailing, snorkeling, whale-watching, and scuba-diving excursions depart from its wharf, which is the longest in the state and is also a wonderful place to catch sunsets. To get here, take Kaunakakai Place, which dead-ends at the wharf.

The Kaluakoi Hotel is closed, but you can still access its ½-mile ivory-sand beach, which is contrasted by turquoise ocean, black lava outcroppings, and magenta bougainvillea blossoms. When the sea is perfectly calm, lava ridges in the water make good snorkeling spots. With any surf at all, however, the water around these rocky places churns and foams, wiping out visibility and making it difficult to avoid being slammed into the jagged rocks. Stick to the northern part of the beach to avoid as many of the rocks as possible. If the surf is too high for snorkeling, head up the path to the bench and take it all in. Amenities: none. Best for: snorkeling; walking.

Established in 1923, this quiet community at the western end of the highway once housed workers for the island's pineapple plantation. There's not much in Maunaloa anymore, but it's the last place you can stock up on supplies before exploring nearby beaches. You can also stop at Maunaloa's Big Wind Kite Factory to talk with Uncle Jonathan, who has been making and flying kites here for more than three decades.

The sweet smell of plumeria surrounds you at this 10-acre grove containing thousands of these fragrant trees. Purchase a lei to go, or for $40 you'll get a tour of the farm, then staffers will give you a basket, set you free to pick your own blossoms, and teach you how to string your own lei. Whether purchasing a lei or making your own, call for an appointment or book or order online in advance.

Clear, close views of Maui and Lanai across the Pailolo Channel dominate One Alii Beach Park ("one" is pronounced "o-nay," not "won"), the only well-maintained beach park on the island's south-central shore. Molokai folks gather here for family reunions and community celebrations; the park's tightly trimmed expanse of lawn could almost accommodate the entire island's population. Swimming within the reef is perfectly safe, but don't expect to catch any waves. It is appropriate only for Native Hawaiians to fish in the nearby One Alii pond. Amenities: playground, showers; toilets. Best for: parties; swimming.

At this small, rural post office you can mail a coconut anywhere in the world. You'll need to bring your own, and it needs to be dried, with no holes from bugs and no sprouts. You can then decorate (colored markers are provided) and address your coconut, and post office staff will affix eye-catching stamps to it from their extensive collection. Costs vary according to destination and weight; the only countries that won't receive the charming postcards are Australia and New Zealand.

Molokai's only working macadamia nut farm is open for educational tours hosted by the knowledgeable and entertaining owners. The family-owned farm takes up 1½ acres with a flourishing grove of 50 original trees that are more than 90 years old, as well as several hundred younger trees. The nuts taste delicious right out of the shell, home roasted, or dipped in macadamia-blossom honey. Look for Purdy's sign behind Molokai High School.

A 14,000-acre private ranch in the highlands of East Molokai, Puu O Hoku was developed in the 1930s by wealthy industrialist Paul Fagan. Route 450 ambles right through this rural treasure with its pastures and grazing horses and cattle. As you drive slowly along, enjoy the splendid views of Maui and Lanai. The small island off the coast is Mokuhooniki, a favorite spot among visiting humpback whales and nesting seabirds. The ranch is also a retreat center and organic farm; the 12-bedroom lodge can be rented out by groups or large families.

At this small, white church, a quick stop off the highway, you can learn more about Father Damien and his work. It's a state historic site and place of pilgrimage. The door is often open; if it is, slip inside, sign the guest book, and make a donation. The congregation keeps the church in beautiful condition.

Also known as Twenty Mile Beach, this arched stretch of sand leads to one of the most popular snorkeling spots on the island. The water here, protected by the flanks of the little bay, is often so clear and shallow that even from land you can watch fish swimming among the coral heads. Watch out for traffic when you enter the highway.  This is a pleasant place to stop on the drive around the east end. Amenities: none. Best for: snorkeling; swimming.