Fodor's Expert Review Alabama Jack's

Calories be damned—the conch fritters here are heaven on a plate. Don't expect the traditional, golf-ball-size spheres of dough; these are unusual, mountainous, free-form creations of fried, loaded-with-flavor perfection. The crab cakes, made from local blue crabs, earn hallelujahs, too. The conch salad is as good as any you'll find in the Bahamas. This weathered, circa-1950 restaurant floats on two roadside barges in an old fishing community. Regulars include motorcyclists, families, boaters, and the upscale crowd from nearby Ocean Reef Club, including Kathie Lee Gifford, who all come not only for the food but to admire tropical birds in the nearby mangroves and the occasional crocodile and to jam with the bands playing each weekend afternoon. Dinner has to be early here; Jack's closes by 6:30, when the mosquitoes start biting. It's about a half-hour drive from Key Largo, so you may want to plan a visit for your drive in or out.