Fodor's Expert Review Goosecross Cellars

Large retractable west-facing windows in this boutique winery's barnlike tasting space open up behind the bar to views of Cabernet Sauvignon vines—in fine weather, guests on the outdoor deck can practically touch them. Farther in the distance lie the Mayacamas Mountains. Goosecross makes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Carneros grapes, but the soul of this cordial operation is its 12-acre State Lane Vineyard, the 9.2 planted acres mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with some Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. The State Lane Cabernet and Merlot are the stars, along with the Holly's Block 100% Cab and the Aeros Bordeaux-style blend of the vineyard's best grapes. The last two aren't always poured, but the intentionally big Branta red wine (the blend changes with each vintage), a crowd-pleaser, usually is. Visits to Goosecross are by appointment only.