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Toronto’s calling card—its ethnic diversity—offers up a potent mix of cuisines. But with that base, the city’s chefs are now pushing into new territory. Gone are the days of chefs gunning for white linen tablecloths; now pop-up vendors such as Fidel Gastro’s Lisa Marie and Seven Lives Tacos Y Mariscos draw a cult following big enough to open up brick-and-mortar locations.
And it’s not enough to have consistently good food: kitchens are pushed to be creative and embrace food trends. Spanish tapas and Korean fusion have replaced French and Thai as the newest crazes in the city and izakayas are out while ramen is in. Farm-to-table shows no sign of slowing down, with many menus citing the source of their meats and produce. While Toronto is still young as a foodie travel destination, it’s drawing in the crowds, or at a minimum world-famous chefs such as Daniel Boulud and David Chang, who have landed in Toronto with Café Boulud and Momofuku. And as locals will tell you, first come the chefs, then come the savvy foodie travelers, always posting a tweet or photo to Instagram at the city’s newest hot spots.
The 10- to 16-course dinners here breathed new life into the concept of the tasting menu for many Torontonians, thanks to a chef who channels refined French cooking techniques into beautifully composed plates. Courses from the ever-changing offerings have included striped bass with chanterelles and baby artichokes, Nova Scotia lobster tail paired with romesco and shishito peppers, and rack of pork offset with bing cherries, Swiss chard, and a dusting of pistachios.
It's hard not to feel a little giddy sitting in the opulent whiskey-barrel-inspired dining room on the 31st floor of the St. Regis. Upward gazes are met with a swirling painted ceiling with floral glass chandeliers to mimic melting ice cubes. The seasonal French-leaning menu has featured stunners like a fruit-speckled scallop ceviche served on ice in a half shell, rough-cut beef tartare accented by a fermented black garlic reduction to be devoured with taro chips, and a showstopping truffle butter, sous-vide whole organic chicken served both roasted and fried. Cocktails are dainty and balanced wizardry with elaborate details like dehydrated Aperol–salted rims and vegan egg white foam.
Every dish served is a work of art at this modern French-fusion establishment that offers a portfolio of lunch and dinner tasting menus for culinary thrill-seekers. The seven-course dinner menu offers luxuries like caviar-topped upgrades, dry-aged bison steak, and a wine pairing with presentations from the head sommelier. While the dishes change quarterly, there is a consistent Haitian influence that shows up where least expected.
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