Fodor's Expert Review Brasserie L'École

French-country cooking shines at this informal Chinatown bistro, and the historic room—once a schoolhouse for the Chinese community—evokes a timeless brasserie, from the patina-rich fir floors to the chalkboards above the slate bar listing the day's oyster, mussel, and steak options. Owner Sean Brennan, one of the city's better-known chefs, works with local farmers and fishermen to source the best seasonal, local, and organic ingredients. The menu changes daily but lists such contemporary spins on classic bistro fare as duck confit with house-made sausage, steak frites, or spring salmon with beets, shallots, and pommes rissolées. Be prepared for lines as this petite spot does not take reservations—but it's worth the wait.