Afternoon Tea in Victoria

Maybe it's the city's British heritage, but afternoon tea—a snack of tea, cakes, and sandwiches taken mid-afternoon and not to be confused with "high tea," a hot meal eaten at dinnertime—lives on in Victoria. Several of Victoria's gardens and historic homes also make atmospheric settings for tea. The most authentic places are near the Inner Harbour and in the very British Oak Bay district, often described as being "behind the tweed curtain."

Butchart Gardens Dining Room. The dining room at the Butchart Gardens, in the Butchart family's former residence, serves traditional teas daily, year-round. Afternoon tea, with sandwiches and baked treats, is served noon to 4:30 pm from April through September; high tea, with warm savories and sweeter delights, is offered noon–3 pm from October through March. Gluten-free teas require 24-hour notice. 800 Benvenuto Ave., Brentwood Bay, Victoria, British Columbia, V8M 1J8. 250/652–8222; www.butchartgardens.com.

Fairmont Empress Hotel Tea Lobby. Victoria's most elaborate and most expensive afternoon tea is served, as it has been since 1908, in the ornate lobby of the Fairmont Empress Hotel. The tea is the hotel's own blend, and the cakes, scones, and crustless sandwiches are prepared by some of Victoria's finest pastry chefs. As you face the bill of C$75 per person (C$105 if you include champagne), remember that tea here is more than a snack; it was, historically, a way to keep civilization alive in this farthest outpost of the empire. Seatings are daily from 11 am to 5:30 pm. Children under 12 pay half-price. 721 Government St., Downtown, Victoria, British Columbia, V8W 1W5. 250/389–2727; www.fairmont.com/empress. Afternoon tea daily noon–3:45; Evening tea May–Aug., Thurs.–Sat. 7–9 pm.

Pacific Restaurant. For a Pacific Rim twist on the tea tradition, try this window-lined restaurant in the Hotel Grand Pacific. You can choose from an assortment of Asian-style teas, like the cherry haiku or dragon tears (green tea with jasmine), while you nibble on Dungeness crab cakes, tuna tataki, scones with clotted cream, and lemon meringue tarts. Tea is served from 2 to 4:30 daily, for C$44 per person. Reservations must be made 24 hours in advance. Hotel Grand Pacific, 463 Belleville St., Downtown, Victoria, British Columbia, V8V 1X3. 250/380–4458. Reservations essential.

Point Ellice House. Wicker armchairs under an awning on the lawn of the Victorian Point Ellice House are a lovely setting for afternoon tea with home-baked goodies. Harbour Ferries from the Inner Harbour deliver you directly to the garden. From early May to early September, tea is served daily 11 am to 4 pm. The C$32 cost includes admission to the house, as does the vegan/gluten-free grand tea (C$35). 2616 Pleasant St., Downtown, Victoria, British Columbia, V8T 4V3. 250/380–6506; www.pointellicehouse.com.

The Teahouse at Abkhazi Garden. Afternoon teas, with fresh-baked scones and cream, miniquiches, cucumber sandwiches, and seasonal treats featuring produce from the garden, are served in the sun-drenched living room of the Abkhazi Garden. Late-morning snacks (called "elevenses") and light lunches are also available at this romantic garden setting. 1964 Fairfield Rd., Fairfield, Victoria, British Columbia, V8S 1H4. 778/265–6466; www.abkhaziteahouse.com. May.–Sept., daily 11–5; Oct.–Apr., Wed.–Sun. 11–5 .

White Heather Tea Room. Everything, including the jam, is homemade for the Scottish-style teas served in the White Heather Tea Room, a lovely place with big windows. Tuesday to Saturday, lunch and afternoon tea (called a Big Muckle or Little Muckle depending on your appetite) are served 10 to 5. Gluten-free selections are available. 1885 Oak Bay Ave., Oak Bay, Victoria, British Columbia, V8R 1C6. 250/595–8020; www.whiteheather-tearoom.com. Closed Sun. and Mon.