Coyoacán

Founded by Toltecs in the 10th century and later settled by Mexica (commonly known as Aztecs), then Spanish conquistador Cortés, and then—over the past century or so—by a steady stream of artists, writers, intellectuals, and creative spirits, Coyoacán is as much a mood as a physical place.

About 12 km (7 miles) south of Centro Histórico, this colonial neighborhood of quiet tree-lined streets feels like its own little village, and indeed, until it was officially incorporated as a part of Mexico City in 1857, it functioned as a distinct—and quite rural—municipality. When Cortés arrived, the settlement sat on the southwestern shore of Lake Texcoco. Today it's a wonderful place for strolling and people-watching, especially around its festive central squares (or zócalo), Plaza Hidalgo and adjacent Jardín Centenario; it's also home to one of the country's most popular attractions, Casa Azul, where painter Frida Kahlo resided.

Coyoacán has actually been the home of many illustrious creatives and intellectuals, including artists David Alfaro Siqueiros and Diego Rivera; directors Luis Buñuel and Emilio "El Indio" Fernández; actors Dolores del Río, Mario Moreno, Daniel Giménez Cacho, and Diego Luna; singer Lila Downs; and writers Octavio Paz, Laura Esquivel, Jorge Ibargüengoitia, Juan Villoro, and Salvador Novo. It's also the neighborhood where the exiled Leon Trotsky met his violent death. The neighborhood's bohemian spirit is still palpable, and during the day, its artsy cafés, shaded parks and plazas, and bounty of cultural centers and excellent, often underrated museums (Museo Frida Kahlo is by no means the only game in town) overflow with both locals and tourists.

Bear in mind that Coyoacán is both one of Mexico City's 16 official delegaciónes (comparable to boroughs) and the name commonly used to refer to the much smaller historic neighborhood that's covered here. When most Chilangos (residents of Mexico City) refer to Coyoacán, they mean this small historic core (also known as Colonia Del Carmen) that's home to Museo Frida Kahlo, Avenida Francisco Sosa, Plaza Hidalgo, and Jardín Centenario. The delegación of Coyoacán spans well beyond this historic center and is home to some 650,000 residents; the major attractions in the delegación outside the historic core—such as Museo Anahuacalli, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM), and Estadio Azteca—are farther afield and thus covered in the Greater Mexico City section.

Historic Coyoacán is largely without the hipster cachet and expat popularity of Roma and Condesa, and its relatively out-of-the-way location insulates it—to a degree—from the faster pace and urban sprawl that characterizes much of the rest of the city. As popular as it is for breakfast, coffee, and daytime exploring, it quiets down a bit in the evening, except for the handful of locals-oriented cantinas and bars around the zócalo. This historic core of the neighborhood buzzes with merriment day and night, but especially on weekends. Mostly locals of all ages and a smaller number of tourists mill about Plaza Hidalgo, Jardín Centenario, and the surrounding blocks, which are lined with souvenir shops, inexpensive restaurants, and vendors selling classic Mexican treats like elote, tamales, candies, chile-dusted snacks, tacos, and more. The cheerful, family-friendly vibe is similar to that of a street fair.

The neighborhood's one unwelcome recent development was the 2021 construction of lipstick-shape Torre Mítikah, a menacingly banal emblem of hubristic postmodernism that lies on the border between Del Valle and Coyoacán and is now the tallest building in Mexico City. Like an awkwardly tall, uninvited party guest, Torre Mítikah now routinely photo bombs everyone's otherwise enchanting pictures of Coyoacán, whose skyline had previously barely changed since the days of Cortés.

Although lacking big hotels, the neighborhood is rife with charming Airbnbs and a handful of inviting, beautifully appointed inns. It's a perfect hub if you're seeking a relatively tranquil base for exploring the city, and you don't mind having to Uber or take the Metro to more central neighborhoods. Many who stay here combine their visit with a few days closer to the city center, which is a nice strategy for experiencing two very distinct sides of Mexico City. The most ardent devotees of Coyoacán's bohemian spirit and manageable pace can't imagine staying, or living, anywhere else in the city.