Fonda del Convento
In a low stone building on a tree-lined street, this unassuming café is overlooked by most travelers but is always packed with locals. The series of small dining rooms means it won't be hard to find a quiet table. The delicious traditional fare includes such dishes as chicken broth with creamy avocados and strips of cactus flambéed with bits of onion and chilies. Ask your waiter if there's caldo de habas, a bean soup with strips of cactus; it's something of a local specialty, and is quite tasty. Open until 8 pm, and quiet after 6, it's best for breakfast and lunch.
