6 Best Sights in Gaziantep, The Black Sea Coast and Lake Van

What claims to be the largest mosaic museum in the world houses a stunning collection of Roman-era mosaics rescued from a nearby archaeological site called Zeugma, which was previously submerged under the waters of a man-made lake. The intricate mosaics—some portraying scenes from Roman mythology, others more artistic geometric designs—are dazzling to behold. The fragment of a mosaic depicting a young woman with an enigmatic gaze (called "The Gypsy Girl") is quickly earning Mona Lisa–like iconic status across Turkey. Many of the mosaics depict less common myths, such as that of Achilles, hidden by his mother before the Trojan War and disguised in women's clothing but tricked into showing interest in a sword, and Parthenope and Metiochus, the Romeo and Juliet of the ancient world. Destruction by illegal excavations is also highlighted, and several of the mosaics on display did time in private collections in the United States before being recovered.

The heart of the bazaar is the Zincirli Bedestan, with shops selling copper work, mother-of-pearl inlay, saddles, and Ottoman-style leather shoes. Beyond the bedestan is the Bakırcılar Çarşısı, the market of the coppersmiths, where an orchestra of craftspeople tap out bowls and coffee cups between customers. From here you emerge at the Tahmis Coffee House, one of the most traditional places to try the local menengiç (wild pistachio) coffee and where, legend has it, the Sultan Murat IV dropped in for coffee on his way to conquer Baghdad in 1638 (the current shop was built after a fire destroyed the original in the 19th century). The neighboring Sufi lodge, now the Mevlevihanesi Vakif Museum, has historic Korans and kilims (along with free admission).

From the intersection of İstasyon Caddesi and Atatürk Bulvarı, head southwest into the rabbit warren of the Bey neighborhood. Many of the old houses here have been turned into cafés, which allow the passing visitor to nose about inside. One of the cafés, Papirus Cafeteria on Noter Sokak, is especially popular and features faded frescos in the upstairs rooms. The Bey neighborhood was largely Armenian and three old churches survive. The easiest to find is the Kendirli Church on Atatürk Caddesi built in 1860 with the support of Napoleon III for Armenian Catholics. The main Armenian Orthodox Cathedral, also built in the 19th century, is farther south on Hapişhane Caddesi, now in use as the Kurtuluş Mosque. Farther along this street on the far side is another former church, now the Ömer Ersoy Cultural Centre. Back on Atatürk Caddesi is the City Museum (1 TL). There are very few actual exhibits here; each room has a video screen with an accompanying sound track of the free English-language audio guide. The most interesting rooms are dedicated to Antep's traditional crafts. Free tours of the city depart from the museum every morning.

The northern exit of the Zincirli Bedestan brings you out beside the 19th-century Alaüddevle Mosque, with its large dome. From here Hamdi Kutlar Caddesi leads past more coppersmiths, several restored 19th-century kervansarays, and the small but interesting Emine Göğüş Culinary Museum (1 TL). The street eventually arrives at the prominent kale (castle), built over the layers of the pre-Roman city by the Emperor Justinian in the 6th century and remodeled by the Seljuk Turks in the 12th and 13th centuries. It's a steep walk to the top, but the view over the bazaar district is fantastic (if it ever finally reopens—as of this writing, it was closed for renovations). For now, it's possible to visit the Defense Panorama Museum housed in the approach tunnel, which portrays the city defending itself from French and Armenian attackers in 1920. If you need some relaxation after the excursion, on the far side of the castle you'll find the recently restored Naib Hamam, dating from 1640 (23 TL). It's open to women from 9 to 5, and to men from 6 pm to midnight.

While exploring the warren of streets that make up the Bey neighborhood, step into a traditional Gaziantep house, with dressed-up mannequins filling in as residents. The basement carved out of the rock is a common feature of Antep houses, and the shady courtyard is a welcome retreat from the heat and blazing sun. The surprise exhibit is the captured motorcycle of Lawrence of Arabia, who spied against the Ottomans in World War I.