Casa Revuelta
Many tapas bars serve pinchos de bacalao (battered cod, an old-school standby), but the fan favorite is Revuelta's rendition, which is crisp, featherlight, and not too salty. Elbow your way to the bar and ask for a pincho de bacalao and a glass of Valdepeñas, a Manchegan red that's poured from a time-warpy glass frasco into a tiny stemless glass—just like in the olden days.