Calella de Palafrugell and Around

Up the coast from S'Agaró, the C31 brings you to Palafrugell and Begur; to the east are some of the prettiest, least developed inlets of the Costa Brava. One road leads to Llafranc, a small port with waterfront hotels and restaurants, and forks right to the fishing village of Calella de Palafrugell, known for its July habaneras festival. (The habanera is a form of Cuban dance music brought to Europe by Catalan sailors in the late 19th century; it still enjoys a nostalgic cachet here.) Just south is the panoramic promontory of Cap Roig, with views of the barren Formigues Isles.

North along the coast lie Tamariu, Aiguablava, Fornell, Platja Fonda, and (around the point at Cap de Begur) Sa Tuna and Aiguafreda. There's not much to do in any of these hideaways, but you can luxuriate in wonderful views, some of the Costa Brava's best beaches and coves, and the soothing quiet. Tamariu, a largely unspoiled former fishing village backed by simple whitewashed houses and a small strip of seafood restaurants that hug the shoreline, is reached by descending a vertiginous road set between mountains and pine forests. Farther north, toward Begur, the small, sheltered Aiguablava beach sets the stage for memorable sunsets. Its restaurant, Toc Al Mar, is a firm favorite with barcelonins (Barcelona residents) on weekend coastal jaunts and offers picture-perfect views.

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