15 Best Sights in Orkney and Shetland Islands, Scotland

A stone tower on the site of what was originally an Iron Age fortification, Clickimin Broch (just to the southwest of Lerwick) makes a good introduction to these mysterious buildings. It was possibly intended as a place of retreat and protection in the event of attack. South of the broch are vivid views of the cliffs at the south end of the island of Bressay, which shelters Lerwick Harbor.

Having come this far, you've earned a dram of the local single malt at one of Scotland's northernmost distilleries. It was founded around the turn of the 19th century by Magnus Eunson, a church officer who dabbled in illicit stilling. The Spirit of Orkney tour is highly recommended and takes you through the essential aspects of this near-sacred process, from the ingredients to the hand-turning of the malt, the peating in the peat kilns, the mashing, and finally the maturation in oak casks. This smoky peaty malt can be purchased all over Orkney, as well as from the distillery's austere shop.

During World War II, 550 Italian prisoners of war were captured in North Africa and sent to Orkney to assist with the building of the Churchill Barriers, four causeways that blocked entry into Scapa Flow, Orkney's great natural harbor. Using two corrugated-iron Nissan huts, the prisoners, led by Domenico Chiocchetti, a painter--decorator from the Dolomites, constructed this beautiful and inspiring chapel in memory of their homeland. The elaborate interior frescoes were adorned with whatever came to hand, including bits of metal, colorful stones, and leftover paints. The chapel is located on the small island of Lamb Holm, about 8 miles south of Kirkwall (come by car or X1 bus).

In 1897 a huge storm blew away 4,000 years of sand to expose the multilayered remains of Bronze Age, Iron Age, Pictish, and Viking buildings; prehistoric wheelhouses; and earth houses that represented thousands of years of continuous settlement. It's a large and complex site, and you can roam—and photograph—the remains freely. The small visitor center is packed with details of the lives of former residents and illustrates Jarlshof's more recent history as a medieval farmstead and home of the 16th-century Earl of Orkney and Shetland, "cruel" Patrick Stewart (no relation to the Star Trek actor), who enslaved the men of Scalloway to build Scalloway Castle.

Next to the Shetland Museum, this bold and beautiful (depending on your taste) building is Shetland's adventurous and ambitious arts center. It has a live performance space attracting national and international musicians, two cinemas showing art-house and mainstream films, and a café and bar area that showcases local crafts, acoustic musicians, and some very drinkable Shetland beers.

Sandsayre Pier in Sandwick is the departure point for the passenger ferry to the tiny isle of Mousa, where you can see Mousa Broch, a fortified Iron Age stone tower rising about 40 feet high. The massive walls give a real sense of security, which must have been reassuring for islanders subject to attacks from ship-borne raiders. Exploring this beautifully preserved, curved-stone structure, standing on what feels like an untouched island, makes you feel as if you're back in 100 BC. From April to September, the ferry (£18 round-trip) departs for the island at 11:30 am from Sunday to Friday. From late May to mid-July there are also 10:30 pm dusk boat trips (£30 round-trip) to catch the tiny storm petrels as they return from their day feeding at sea to their nests in the walls of the broch. The sight—and feel—of them swarming in the half-light is something you'll never forget. Note that you must pay in cash for the ferry rides and boat trips.

At the striking Pier Arts Centre, a gallery in a former Stromness merchant's house and adjoining buildings, huge sheets of glass offer tranquil harborside views. They combine perfectly with the space-maximizing design to make the best use of every shard of natural light and inch of wall to display the superb permanent collection. There are more than a hundred 20th- and 21st-century paintings and sculptures here, including works by Barbara Hepworth and Douglas Gordon, while edgy temporary exhibitions showcase international contemporary artists such as Damien Hirst. A chic shop sells design products and art books.

About 5 miles northeast of Stromness, the Ring of Brodgar is a magnificent circle of 36 Neolithic standing stones (originally 60) surrounded by a henge, or deep ditch. When the fog descends over the stones—a frequent occurrence—their looming shapes seem to come alive. The site dates to between 2500 and 2000 BC. Though the original use of the circle is uncertain, it's not hard to imagine strange rituals taking place here in the misty past. The stones stand between the Loch of Harray and Loch of Stenness.

Nine miles south of Sandwick, just outside Dunrossness, this 19th-century thatched house reveals the way of life of rural Shetlanders, which the traditionally attired attendant will be delighted to discuss with you. The peat fire casts a glow on the box bed, the resting chair, and the wealth of domestic implements, including a hand mill for preparing meal and a straw "keshie" for carrying peat. One building made from an upturned boat was used for storing and drying fish and mutton; huts like this inspired the design of the new Scottish Parliament.

On the last remaining stretch of the old waterfront at the restored Hay's Dock, the striking Shetland Museum, with its sail-like tower, is the area's cultural hub and a stimulating introduction to local history. The two-story space is filled with displays about archaeology, textiles, and contemporary arts. Standout exhibits include depictions of the minutiae of everyday Shetland life across the centuries, the last remaining sixareen (a kind of fishing boat), and the collection of lace shawls donated by Shetland families. Its informal spaces make this a wonderful place to hang out; look for vintage vessels moored in the dock and seals that pop up to observe everyone at the glass-fronted café--restaurant terrace. The museum shop is a must-visit, with a beautiful selection of nicely priced postcards and useful things inspired by the museum's collection.

After a fierce storm in 1850, the laird of Breckness, William Graham Watt, discovered this cluster of Neolithic houses at the bottom of his garden. First occupied around 3000 BC and containing stone beds, fireplaces, dressers, and cupboards, Skara Brae is the best-preserved Neolithic settlement in western Europe—and a fascinating real insight into an ancient civilization. A reconstruction of one house can be seen in the visitor center, which displays artifacts from the site and hosts an excellent café. Skara Brae stands on the grounds of Skaill House, a splendid intriguing mansion built by the Bishop of Orkney in the 1600s. His descendants, the lairds of Breckness, along with the various ladies of the manor, added to the house and to the eclectic furnishings. These sites offer a joint ticket in summer months that's well worth the price: the juxtaposition of different societies thousands of years apart that shared the same corner of Orkney makes a fascinating visit. The site is around 8 miles north of Stromness.

It was on St. Ninian's Isle that a schoolboy helping archaeologists excavate the ruins of a 12th-century church discovered the St. Ninian treasure, a collection of 28 silver objects dating from the 8th century. This Celtic silver is housed in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh (a point of controversy), but good replicas are in the Shetland Museum and Archives in Lerwick. Although you can't see the silver, walking over the causeway of golden sand (called a tombolo or ayre) that joins St. Ninian's Isle to the Mainland is an unforgettable experience. From Sumburgh head 4½ miles north on A970, turn left onto the B9122 at Skelberry, and continue for another 4 miles to Bigton.

The enchanting Stromness Museum has the feel of some grand Victorian's private collection but has, in fact, been community owned since it opened in 1837. Home to fascinating exhibits on fishing, shipping, and whaling, it's also crammed with interesting trinkets from all over the world. They found their way here via the Hudson's Bay Shipping Company, which recruited workers in Stromness between the late 18th and 19th centuries (as they were considered more sober and therefore more reliable than other Scots). Also here are model ships and displays on the German fleet that was scuttled on Scapa Flow in 1919. Head upstairs to see the beguiling collection of birds and butterflies native to the British Isles.

Standing atop one of northern Europe's most stunning locations, this beautiful lighthouse—built in 1821 by Robert Stevenson, grandfather of the writer Robert Louis—was the first anywhere in Shetland. Sir Walter Scott was very taken with the location and based his novel The Pirate on the nearby landmarks of Jarlshof and Fitful Head. The stories of the Old Radar Hut—crucial during WWII—and the engine room with its deep booming foghorn are brought back to life here, while a Marine Life Centre has excellent displays on the birds, fish, and sea mammals found around the cliffs. If you walk round the dry-stone dikes, you will probably see (and will definitely hear) puffins, guillemots, and fulmars breeding, feeding, and fighting on the rocks. Don't miss the circular café and Education Suite, with its jaw-dropping panorama.

After viewing the cliffs at Eshaness, call in at Tangwick Haa Museum, the 17th-century home of the Cheynes, now packed full with photographs, household items, and knitting, farming, and fishing equipment from the 18th to early 20th century. Upstairs is the Laird's Room, a traditional sitting room of the 19th century and a room of curiosities, including whale eardrums. Downstairs—next to the help-yourself café—there are rows of folders; ask one of the staff to let you hear what's in them and you will be rewarded with the soft, gentle voices of local elders telling you of life lived in Shetland.