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For years, Moscow hotels were plagued by the same Soviet-bequeathed deficiencies the city's other service industries had: poor value, inconsistent service, and a limited selection. These days, the situation has improved over what it was five or even three years ago, but progress is still slow. Four- and five-star luxury behemoths still dominate, although there's also a growing number of unfrilly, steel-and-Plexiglas business hotels that fill their rooms with exhibition-goers and salespeople. Unfortunately, only a handful of places in the center could be called both intimate and affordable.
That said, the glitzy affairs that crowd ulitsa Tverskaya and other boulevards downtown are world-class, with soaring marble foyers, celestial spas, and increasingly gracious and well-trained staff. Many of them replaced or transformed old Soviet gostinitsas (hotels) beyond recognition—both architecturally and service-wise. The magnificent Radisson Royal spread red carpets over the remains of the former Hotel Ukraine and became the top luxury business hotel in the city. A sparkling InterContinental (the first in Russia) arrived at the site of former Minsk hotel on Tverskaya. The Moscow Ritz formerly known as Intourist and steps from the Kremlin, still sets the gold standard for opulence and fine service in the city. All eyes are on a much-anticipated opening of the Four Seasons on Manezh Square, designed to be a replica of the iconic Soviet Hotel Moskva, famous for having its image on the label of Stolichnaya vodka.
Moscow's hotels live up to their dubious reputation as the most expensive in Europe. A major shortage of worthy choices still plagues the midrange segment, especially inside the Garden Ring. Within those bounds, you might have to scour every side street to find a room for under 6,000R a night, and for that price, you typically won't get the breakfast spread and heated pool you could expect at a typical chain place in the U.S. However, amenities are improving rapidly. Once the norm was plywood furniture and tarnished polyester upholstery, but now furnishings are sturdier and there are softer linens on firmer beds. (Plenty of hotels still haven't taken up that ubiquitous mouse-brown carpeting, though.)
A glaring Soviet carryover is in the approach to service. The customer is not always right at many midrange hotels, so it helps to treat the staff with extra care when making requests and even when asking questions. And ask questions you should; because standards vary widely, it's advisable to ask about everything you might want—including turndown service, assistance with concert tickets, and no-smoking rooms—before booking. Another pitfall to keep in mind when booking is the 18% VAT Russian hotels impose. Although in most cases the amount is already added to the room price, some hotels (particularly the upscale ones) prefer to charge that on top of the listed price. Read the fine print and rate rules.
At hotels in Moscow, someone on staff usually speaks English, so you can almost always find someone who can help you. However, English-speakers typically aren't fluent, so be patient when explaining anything complicated. In general, very few people will be offended if you speak English with them—in fact, many are eager for the practice—but do ask whether someone knows the language first (Vi gavaritye pa-angliisky?).
If you're a confident traveler, you might consider renting a short-term apartment like those provided by Four Squares Apartments, as they often provide the best value. You might even be able to find living quarters near the Red Square that dwarf the suites of a luxury hotel next door. But if you want to be central, expect to pay a hefty sum no matter where you stay; for now, that's what Moscow demands.
This 1955, Soviet-era tower is a Moscow landmark, offering old-fashioned accommodations that, though upgraded, still evoke Stalinist Russia, as may the service and amenities. Guest rooms vary in size, so it makes sense to ask to see a few before checking in. Request one on a higher floor if any are available, so you can enjoy the views of central Moscow.
What many travelers consider to be the city's finest luxury hotel—and with these rates, it ought to be—does its best to dazzle guests with sumptuously and traditionally furnished guest quarters that evoke tsarist Russia, as do the views of the onion domes of St. Basil's. A decadent spa with swimming pool, lavish lounges, and a stunning rooftop terrace are among the many, many amenities. Even if it's all too rich for your blood, it's worth a stop just to check out the gold and marble foyer.
Gilded chandeliers, ceiling paintings, and polished paneling invoke the spirit of prerevolutionary Russia, as do the best of the high-ceilinged rooms and spacious marble bathrooms. The Savoy opened in 1913 in connection with celebrations commemorating the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty, and this spirit is most in evidence in the ornate dining room, where a complimentary breakfast is served: a pianist serenades, a fountain bubbles, and painted cherubs seemingly float among clouds. Rooms on the second floor have towering ceilings—they get progressively lower as you reach higher floors—and beds are king-sized, with orthopedic mattresses but also bland, unluxurious bedspreads. The Savoy's real trump card is its location—ploshchad Teatralnaya and the Kremlin are literally around the corner, and though the views look on a humble side street, this keeps things quiet.
The European business community loves this place, thanks to amenities that include a chauffeur-driven fleet of cars, though most rooms are small and crammed with chain-standard furnishings. Spacious comfort is assured those who can spring for the duplexes on the Towers Floor, a hotel-within-a-hotel with its own reception and lounge. The location at the far upper end of ulitsa Tverskaya is excellent, and the soundproof windows keep things quiet.
The first capsule hotel in Russia is made up of compact, windlowless capsules, much like train compartments, each with one to three beds, limited storage space, and shared facilities (though several standard rooms with bathrooms are also available). The futuristic design and tight quarters may or may not be appeal, though a convenient location and bargain price for downtown Moscow may well compensate. Note that many beds are reached by a ladder, not making this a good choice for travelers with mobility issues; nor are the little pods suited to those with claustrophobia—or a lot of luggage.
Plunge into Soviet-era grandeur at what even Russian guests consider to be a "time machine," with marble columns, comfortable sofas, Socialist realist art, grand chandeliers, and a "shabby chic" ethos in the high-ceilinged guest rooms. Public areas are extremely well maintained, while guest quarters are spotless but charmingly outdated. Service is generally gracious, but stumbles at times.
Surround yourself in the atmosphere of an old Russian fairy tale: there's massive carved oak furniture, stained-glass windows, and wall paintings depicting popular tales like "Little Scarlet Flower" (the Russian version of "Beauty and the Beast"). The lobby bar is nicely set in the winter garden, where there's rich vegetation. Guest rooms are quite modern, with all amenities, though they aren't as imaginative as the hotel's public areas. Though centrally located, Sretenskaya is a 25-minute walk from the Red Square. Moscow's famous boulevards and the Garden Ring are only steps away.
This tallest luxury hotel in town, a 34-story sleek glass-and-metal cylinder that holds its own with Stalin's Seven Sisters, also has some of the largest guest rooms in town, warmly done with chestnut-wood walls. A favorite with European businesspeople, this hotel is in the heart of a booming business district not far from Paveletsky train station and next to the Moscow House of Music. Several top-shelf restaurants include the Asian-inspired Kai, which often hosts Michelin-starred chefs from Europe, and the City Space bar on the top floor, with cosmic cocktails and fantastic views.
Functional rooms in the back of a monolithic government building have drab modern furnishings and cover all the shades of beige and gray, colored only by 17th-century-style lithographs, at this hotel. The main attraction is the surrounding historical neighborhood; also highly praised are the reception attendants, who greet you with cheery smiles. An upbeat attitude is also audible some nights in the restaurant, where the house band is led by one of Russia's most celebrated jazz musicians, saxophonist Igor Butman. The tree-lined Boulevard Ring is a two-minute walk away and Red Square a pleasant half-hour stroll.
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