13 Best Restaurants in South of the River, Lisbon

Trafaria is a tiny fishing village with a charming view of small boats and Lisbon in one direction and a huge grain silo in the other. Hidden down a back street, cozy Casa Ideal has been welcoming diners for more than 40 years with a humble menu of grilled fish and delicious seafood rice dishes. Take the ferry from Belém and always reserve a table on weekends.

Creativity and chemistry combine at this Italian-style gelato shop on Sesimbra’s waterfront. Choose from 18 traditional and fun flavors, including many that make use of fresh fruits. Two brothers—a pharmacist and a pastry chef—returned from a Bologna gelato course to create ECHO.

Since 1942 this bakery has been a cornerstone of the Costa da Caparica community. Sit out on the terrace beneath the pine trees, where you can taste its famous pastéis de Santo António (custard tarts with coconut), along with coffee roasted on-site.

A paper tablecloth stuck to the window detailing the day’s dishes is almost always a good sign. At lunch, this chic tavern and marisqueira fills with a crowd of well-dressed regulars who return for the high-quality food and friendly banter.

The huge queues that form outside this tiny family-run tavern are a testament to the fact that the fish served here is the best in town.

A huge wall of specialist coffee brewing equipment shows this light-filled café means business. Join the locals for a flat white and pastry while catching up on the news.

This bright red kiosk directly in front of the ferry terminal is hard to miss, and there are few better spots for a quick coffee, beer, or ginjinha (sour cherry liqueur) while waiting for a boat. Although the food offer is limited, toasted sandwiches, nuts, and potato chips will keep hunger pangs at bay while you soak up the sun.

When love led Damascus-born Bashar Khabbaz to put down roots in Portugal, he couldn’t help but miss the flavors of Syria. So he opened this Syrian bistro in Cacilhas with homestyle dishes from kibbeh to kebabs. Call ahead for traditional live music on Saturday nights. 

There's no shortage of places to eat ice cream in Sesimbra, but Fini serves superior Italian scoops and has a sunny patio overlooking the sea. Flavors vary daily (the banana and peanut butter is particularly delicious), plus there's a wide range of toppings and good coffee.

This friendly café-bar has a wonderful vantage over the sea. The seafood, toasted sandwiches, and house white wine are all good, but the main attraction is the sheltered terrace.

This relaxed coastal eatery runs the gamut from great breakfast and brunch options to natural wines. A warm Ukrainian-Russian couple opened this dog-friendly café and bar close to the beach. Choose from a great selection of wine by the glass or bottle and an all-day menu with dishes such as traditional cheese pancakes called syrniki and a confit duck burger.

The south of the river is more than just seafood. If you’re craving Italian, Valdo Gatti serves artisanal wood-fired pizza crafted with Italian and Portuguese ingredients. The dough is left to rise slowly for two days before it reaches your plate.  

A haven for vegetarians and vegans amid a sea of fish restaurants, Xéxéxé is a cozy bistro serving delicious meals as well as house-baked pies and pastries. With creative use of seasonal ingredients, there are several choices of set meals each day. Space is limited, so book a table in advance.