8 Best Restaurants in Castello, Venice

The name is a reference to the old headboards that adorn the walls of this tiny, informal restaurant, but the food (not the decor) is undoubtedly the focus. Local foodies consider this one of the most refined eateries in the city thanks to chef Bruno Gavagnin's gently creative take on classic Venetian fish dishes; the chef's artistry seldom draws attention to itself but simply reveals new dimensions of familiar fare, creating dishes that stand out for their lightness and balance. A classic black risotto of cuttlefish, for example, is surrounded by a brilliant coulis of mild yellow peppers; tiny potato gnocchi are paired with tender newborn squid. The menu changes regularly to capitalize on the freshest produce of the moment, and the wine selection is top-notch. To enjoy a more leisurely meal, be sure to book the second dinner seating.

Housed in the atmospheric, deconsecrated ecclesiastical buildings of the Chiesa di San Giovanni Novo, this special restaurant run by the attentive Giuseppe (Pino) Calliandro marries classic Venetian cuisine with some inventive flavor combinations. In colder months dine amid magnificent wooden beams, religious artworks, and quirky objects; in warmer times, the pretty, plant-filled courtyard is the place to sit.

Along Via Garibaldi, the Colauzzi-run Nevodi (dialect for nieces, grandsons, etc.) provides a suitably warm family atmosphere married with tasty, seasonal, innovative fish and meat dishes. Book a table outside or in the pared-back, bare-brick interior, then dive into such delights as succulent clams and mussels in a broth; inky cuttlefish with polenta; bigoli in salsa (pasta with anchovy and onion); grilled octopus with garden vegetables; and duck breast in red wine reduction. Opposite, Nevodi Pizzalab does excellent value pies.

Nearish San Marco, but just off the beaten tourist track to make it reasonably priced, this cute but calorie-stocked neighborhood café-cum-pasticceria (est.1935) provides reliable sustenance to locals and lucky visitors. Ask the ladies to recommend their latest seasonal sweet Venetian treats—among the cornucopia of fried Carnivale pastries fritoe, galani, and mammalucco, and cakes such as pan di spagna and Dogaressa—or opt for a pizzetta topped with either tasty grilled vegetables or tomatoes and anchovies.  

For years, Diane and Cesare Benelli's Al Covo has set the standard of excellence for traditional, refined Venetian cuisine; the Benellis are dedicated to providing their guests with the freshest, highest-quality fish from the Adriatic, and vegetables, when at all possible, from the islands of the Venetian Lagoon and the fields of the adjacent Veneto region. Although their cuisine could be correctly termed "classic Venetian," it always offers surprises, like the juicy crispness of their legendary fritto misto (fried mixed seafood and vegetables)—reliant upon an unconventional secret ingredient in the batter—or the heady aroma of their fresh anchovies marinated in wild fennel, an herb somewhat foreign to Veneto. The main exception to Al Covo's distinct local flavor is Diane's wonderful Texas-inspired desserts, especially her dynamite chocolate cake.

The candlelit tables on this romantic campo are inviting enough, but it's the intimate restaurant's imaginative kitchen that's likely to win you over; you can order consistently excellent pasta, fish, or meat dishes à la carte or opt for one of the rewarding tasting menus. The wine list is ample and well thought out, and the service is gracious, warm, and professional.

Getting off the beaten track to find good, basic local cuisine isn't easy in Venice, but La Trattoria ai Tosi (aka Ai Tosi Piccoli) fits the bill with its somewhat remote, tranquil location, homey atmosphere, and variety of fine traditional fare at prices that make it worth the walk from anywhere in the city. The baccalà mantecato (whipped salted cod) "sanwicini" are excellent, as are the classic frittura mista and the traditional Venetian bigoli in salsa (thick, homemade spaghetti with an anchovy-onion sauce). The fixed-price lunch menu, created for local workers with limited time, is another good deal, and there's even decent pizza.

In a simple yet charming setting with beamed ceilings and terrazzo floors, a sister and brother team oversee their "new Venetian cuisine," where local ingredients are used to prepare reinvented traditional dishes, often with Japanese influences. It's tasting-menu only, with seven or nine courses (or a less expensive four-course option at weekday lunch), and wine pairings from their extensive list are a recommended treat.