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Venetian magic can still linger when you retire for the night, whether you're staying in a grand hotel or budget locanda (inn). Some of the finest Venetian hotel rooms are lighted with Murano chandeliers and swathed in famed fabrics of Rubelli and Bevilacqua, with gilded mirrors and furnishing styles from baroque to Biedermeier and art deco.
Though more-contemporary decor is working its way into renovation schemes, you still may find the prized Venetian terrazzo flooring and canal views in more-modest pensioni. Your window will open, sometimes onto a balcony, so you may enjoy gondoliers' serenades, watch the ebb and flow of city life in the campo (square) below, or simply contemplate what the lack of motor traffic permits you to hear, or not hear.
Even if well renovated, most hotels occupy very old buildings. Preservation laws prohibit elevators in some, so if climbing stairs is an issue, check before you book. In the lower price categories, hotels may not have lounge areas, and rooms may be cramped, and the same is true of standard rooms in more expensive hotels. Space is at a premium in Venice, and even exclusive hotels have carved out small, dowdy, Cinderella-type rooms in the "standard" category. It’s not at all unusual for each room to be different even on the same floor: windows overlooking charming canals and bleak alleyways are both common. En suite bathrooms have become the norm; they’re usually well equipped but sizes will range from compact to more than ample; tubs are considered a luxury but are not unheard of, even in less expensive lodging. Carpeted floors are rare, as they’re traditionally considered to be unhygienic. Air-conditioning is rarely a necessity until mid-June. A few of the budget hotels make do with fans. Mosquitoes can begin to pester in midsummer; turn lights off in the evening if you leave windows open, and ask the hotel staff for a Vape, an anti-mosquito device. The staff members at most Venetian hotels will be able to converse with you in English, and don’t be afraid to ask for anything you need or even to change rooms if you consider it necessary to do so.
This laid-back contemporary guesthouse above Venissa’s osteria is the perfect place to enjoy a food- and wine-centric getaway far from the hectic Venetian mainland. Modern, light-colored rooms have beamed ceilings, wood floors, and comfortable beds; bright large-sized bathrooms include standalone showers. To complete the gourmet experience, be sure to reserve a table in Venissa’s popular restaurant or osteria well in advance to avoid disappointment.
Spending time at this charming guesthouse secreted away down narrow Calle Racheta near the Ca' d'Oro vaporetto stop is like staying with a friend: service is warm and helpful, with lots of suggestions for dining and sightseeing. Attractively appointed guest rooms overlook canals or the spacious enclosed garden and patio—a perfect spot to scribble postcards.
Understated Venetian decor, original exposed-beam ceilings and terrazzo flooring, and large rooms suitable for families or small groups are hallmarks of this intimate, family-owned guesthouse. Guest rooms overlooking tranquil side canals are the best in terms of size and view. The spacious common salon overlooks the Rio San Sofia. The location is serene, but only a short street away from the main Cannaregio thoroughfare (Strada Nova), the Ca' d'Oro vaporetto stop, the traghetto across to the Rialto Market, and the San Marco area. Al Palazzetto is also good for small groups or families, as there are triple and quad rooms; some are connecting. Spring for the attic suite if it's available.
The renovated home of owner Eleonora behind the Fenice Opera House offers three spacious, comfortable, and conscientiously appointed rooms; each has its own private bath and overlooks a gondola-filled canal. The largest room has a broad balcony. An ample breakfast (served at a common table) and exceptional service make Al Teatro an excellent value and a relaxing choice in the sometimes-frenetic San Marco atmosphere. Book well in advance.
Recently restored and thoughtfully appointed lodgings at the end of a narrow calle have beamed ceilings, large windows that invite in light and provide canal views, and space-liberating iron-and-glass furniture. The cheery breakfast room overlooks a quiet side canal, as do two of the six rooms, and a small wooden terrace is perfect for relaxing with a prosecco after a long day of sightseeing.
The heirs of an important Venetian architect have transformed his former residence, on the third and top floors of a palace along the Grand Canal, into an elegant lodging with views of either the Grand Canal or a side canal—or in the case of the smallish Room 6, rooftops, from a terrace twice the size of the room. The inn retains a traditional yet innovative style instilled by the former owner—most of the furniture was his, including an 18th-century briar-wood bureau, and there's a private library accessible to guests. A rich breakfast, including select cheeses and meats from local producers, is served in a salon overlooking the Grand Canal. There's also an attic apartment.
Some pleasant if generic guest rooms overlook a sunny fondamenta and canal, and others a spacious private garden, where breakfast is served in good weather. The interiors are pleasant and comfortable, with traditional furnishings that complement the Venetian terrazzo or parquet flooring. Young owners Matteo and Mattia are attentive and helpful, and the location is around the corner from campos Santa Margherita and San Barnaba, convenient for exploring the sights from San Marco to the Zattere, with easy vaporetto access, too.
If you're looking to escape the 18th-century-style decor that predominates in Venetian lodging, check out these spacious, carefully renovated rooms where ceramic lamps, tapestries, and carved platform beds are combined with standard Venetian features such as beamed ceilings and parquet flooring. Unwind in an intimate, interior courtyard and garden after a day of exploring, sharing discoveries with other guests or checking email using the free Wi-Fi. Mother-daughter owners Deborah and Amelia (of Italian-American descent) provide efficient, personal service. Make sure you get detailed directions and cross-check on a good map before arriving.
Neatly decorated and light-filled rooms between St. Marks Square and the Rialto Bridge offer guests something rare in Venice—a central yet quiet base from which to explore the city. Five of the seven rooms have their own en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning, two have a shared bathroom and ceiling fan, and a few have canal views. A simple breakfast is served in a cheery breakfast room that overlooks a canal. The hospitable owner is around during the day to answer questions and offer restaurant suggestions; during the night, you are on your own.
Pastel lacquered furnishings and mock-flock wallpaper pay tribute to 18th-century Venetian style in the six bedrooms of this small pensione on a charming Castello campo; ask for one that overlooks the neighborhood life out front. You'll easily spot the canopied entrance, flanked by two topiaries and umbrella-topped café tables where you can take your breakfast or sip a late afternoon Prosecco in the sunshine.
Founded by Giuseppe Cipriani in the late 1920s, this intimate locanda (inn) on the island of Torcello remains in the Cipriani family and retains the simple, classy character of the period. The lovingly furnished rooms have large beds, plush armchairs, vaulted ceilings, and modern amenities—but absolutely no televisions; instead, each room comes with a well-stocked library. The in-house pastry chef provides a fresh breakfast each morning in either the dining room or in the garden under a pergola of roses; guests can also choose to dine at the locanda's excellent restaurant. Ernest Hemingway stayed in one of the comfortable rooms while writing "Across the River and Through the Trees."
Tucked behind Campo San Stefano in a charming little courtyard, this oasis offers small but peaceful rooms decorated in 18th-century Venetian style. Palazzo Grassi, Museo Fortuny, and the Accademia Museum are just steps away; San Marco and Rialto are both about a 15-minute walk. In the warmer months, breakfast is served alfresco amid the flowering garden overlooking Campiello Novo. Discounts are given for payment in cash.
You'll find enough classic Venetian characteristics to remind you of where you are, but not so many as to be stuffy or ostentatious. The homey yet elegant feel is accentuated by period furniture, parquet and Venetian terrazzo flooring, and tall windows, some of which open onto small balconies (ask for a room with a canal view). While you're not "steps from San Marco," you are still handy to some major tourist attractions, in addition to the characteristic shopping, eateries, and residential ambience in San Polo and Santa Croce. Service is personal, thorough, and thoughtful. There's no elevator, but all rooms are on one level, one flight up.
