2 Best Sights in Italy

Sicilian carts—brightly painted and led by either a horse or donkey—were an important part of Sicilian history in the 19th and early 20th centuries (at least until the advent of the truck), and they have become a symbol of the island, often sold in miniature form as tourist souvenirs. For fascinating insight into the crafts and their role in Sicilian history, this workshop-museum, which is run by Biagio and Damiano, is a cultural highlight. They'll take you through the fascinating history of the cart, its place in Sicilian society, and the many skills involved in decorating them, including those eye-popping painted designs that advertised the wares transported and status of the driver. A visit can also be part of a 75-minute tour that takes in two other nearby sights: the Circolo di Conversazione (1850), an exclusive club with frescoed ceiling, scene of debate, intrigue, and card playing that is reserved for Ragusa's nobility to this day; plus the lavish Palazzo Arezzo di Trifiletti. Talk to Biagio about a visit to the Antico Mercato ( Via del Mercato 124–144), where botteghe (craft workshops)—including those devoted to sculpture, blacksmithing, and a puppet theater—are run by young artisans to help keep these traditions alive, often accompanied by tables of bountiful food and wine by Putia del Vino wine bar, under the market's beautifully restored arcades.

Charming Salvatore Amorelli, known affectionarly as Totò, has been crafting pipes since 1982, and his evocative, tobacco-perfumed workshop-museum, which is hidden away within a historic courtyard lined with beautifully gnarled pieces of wood, is a joy to visit. As you enter his workshop, smiling Salvatore will take you through the fascinating history of the pipe, the different types of wood and techniques he uses, with displays of pipes laid out on tables. Totò's pipes are sculptural works of art, enjoyed by people from around world, including Bill Clinton, who has a sax-shaped number. Visitors may drop by any day but Sunday, but it's better to call ahead to make an appointment (long lunches are sacred here, of course).