La Pia Centenaria
Considered an institution, this arched, vaulted, and simply decorated pizzeria dates back to 1887. It gets quite busy at lunchtime, with locals inside or, in summer, on the patio munching happily on farinata (a chickpea pancake and a Ligurian delicacy) and thick-crust pizza served hot out of the wood-burning oven. There's a take-out counter, too.
