Get FREE email communications from Fodor's Travel, covering must-see travel destinations, expert trip planning advice, and travel inspiration to fuel your passion.
In Rome, the Eternal(ly culinarily conservative) City, simple yet traditional cuisine reigns supreme. Most chefs prefer to follow the mantra of freshness over fuss, and simplicity of flavor and preparation over complex cooking techniques.
Rome has been known since antiquity for its grand feasts and banquets, and dining out has alway been a favorite Roman pastime. Until recently, the city's buongustaii (gourmands) would have been the first to tell you that Rome is distinguished more by its enthusiasm for eating out than for a multitude of world-class restaurants—but this is changing. There is an ever-growing promotion of slow-food practices, a focus on sustainably and locally sourced produce. The economic crisis has forced the food industry in Rome to adopt innovative ways to maintain a clientele who are increasingly looking to dine out but want to spend less. The result has been the rise of "street food" restaurants, selling everything from inexpensive and novel takes on the classic supplì (Roman fried-rice balls) to sandwich shops that use a variety of organic ingredients.
Generally speaking, Romans like Roman food, and that’s what you’ll find in many of the city’s trattorias and wine bars. For the most part, today’s chefs cling to the traditional and excel at what has taken hundreds, sometimes thousands, of years to perfect. This is why the basic trattoria menu is more or less the same wherever you go. And it's why even the top Roman chefs feature their versions of simple trattoria classics like carbonara, and why those who attempt to offer it in a "deconstructed" or slightly varied way will often come under criticism. To a great extent, Rome is still a town where the Italian equivalent of "What are you in the mood for?" still gets the answer, "Pizza or pasta."
Nevertheless, Rome is the capital of Italy, and because people move here from every corner of the Italian peninsula, there are more variations on the Italian theme in Rome than you'd find elsewhere in Italy: Sicilian, Tuscan, Pugliese, Bolognese, Marchegiano, Sardinian, and northern Italian regional cuisines are all represented. And reflecting the increasingly cosmopolitan nature of the city, you'll find a growing number of good-quality international foods here as well—particularly Japanese, Indian, and Ethiopian.
Oddly enough, though, for a nation that prides itself on la bella figura ("looking good"), most Romans don't fuss about music, personal space, lighting, or decor. After all, who needs flashy interior design when so much of Roman life takes place outdoors, when dining alfresco in Rome can take place in the middle of a glorious ancient site or a centuries-old piazza?
This tiny storefront by famed pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci is the city's most famous place for pizza al taglio (by the slice). It serves more than a dozen versions, from the standard margherita to slices piled high with prosciutto and other tasty ingredients. There's no seating, but you can stand at one of the tables outside. Avoid peak hours or be prepared to wait up to an hour.
One of the next-gen pizzerias taking over the Eternal City, this place has locals buzzing about its superlative Neapolitan-style pies and colorful, punchy design. High-quality ingredients sourced from Campania, including mozzarella from Agerola and San Marzano tomatoes, top the pizzas, which range from a traditional margherita to the "tartufata" with mozzarella, truffle cream, porcini mushrooms, guanciale, and basil.
Romans drive across town for great pizza from this neighborhood institution, which offers both thin-crust and thick-crust (alta) Neapolitan-style pies with any of the given toppings. It doesn't accept reservations, so arrive early or late, or expect to wait in line. Service from the owners and friendly waitstaff is smile-inducing. For food on the go, a smaller location on Via della Scala sells pizza by the slice.
The four owners of this pizzeria come from the deep south (Sicily, Calabria, Campania, and Puglia), and the influence can clearly be seen in the pizza, which is of the thicker Neapolitan variety. There are classic pizzas and interesting options like the Pizza dei Fratelli with 'nduja (a spicy Calabrian sausage), smoked provola cheese, and porcini mushrooms.
This always-crowded pizzeria opens early and closes late, and in between it's packed with locals, tourists, and sports fans who know they can watch the Roma soccer team play on big flat-screen TVs. The selection of pizzas is extensive, with delicious mains available as well. The coveted street-side tables are a great spot from which to view Trastevere's people parade. The service can be slow, so don't go for a quick meal.
Right near the Vatican Metro stop, the "Island of Pizza" is also known for its copious antipasti. Ask for the house appetizers, and a waiter will swoop down numerous plates of salad, seafood, bruschetta, prosciutto, and crispy pizza bianca to choose from. Though it's easy to fill up on starters—you can order just one, or a selection for a fixed price—the pizza is dependably good, and meat lovers appreciate the steak.
The pizza at this neighborhood spot is Roman-style—with a thin crust, charred on the edges. All the standard toppings are available, from margherita to buffalo mozzarella and prosciutto, but try one of the newfangled combinations like ricotta and pancetta and edible wildflowers. The supplì here are outstanding, and the perfect start to a meal. There are close to 100 varieties of craft beers to choose from, and the desserts are all homemade.
The crusts on the pizza at this casual, perennially popular spot just off the Piazza Navona are super-thin and charred around the edges a little—the sign of a good wood-burning oven. This is one of a few pizzerias open for both lunch and dinner, and it's busy day and night. Service is brusque, so don't expect to be invited to linger, but prices are low. When the weather is nice, there are tables outside, making this one of the most pleasant places for a cheap meal in the neighborhood.
This no-frills pizzeria al taglio (by the slice) and bakery is hidden a few minutes away from Piazza Trilussa. As in many traditional bakeries, pizza is sold by weight, so get yours sliced to the size you want. In the mornings, the pastries hot out of the oven are equally enticing, and you can order them from the window on the street if you prefer to snack and stroll.
This busy spot conveniently close to the Colosseum has been serving real-deal Roman-style pizza (super thin and cooked to a crisp) since the mid-1980s. The interiors—designed to resemble the exterior of a house—are kitschy, and the kitchen has made some concessions to tourists with items like a Greek salad, but it's a solid choice for pizza in this neighborhood. The magic might be due to the fact that they let their pizza dough rise 24–48 hours before baking to guarantee an extra-light pizza, said to be more easily digested than others.
In Rome, you'll usually find either pizza tonda (round) or pizza al taglio (by the slice), but there's also pizza pinsa—an oval-shaped individual pie that's a little thicker than the classic Roman pizza. Pinsere is mostly a take-out shop, with people eating on the street for their lunch break, so it's the perfect quick meal. There is a large selection of meat and vegetarian toppings. The big winners are the tomato and buffalo mozzarella and the mortadella and pistachio versions.
This place is packed pretty much every night with diners munching on crisp pizzas that come out of the wood-burning ovens at top speed. It's best not to go during peak dining hours, so go early or late if you don't want to wait. Fortunately there's lots of great nightlife in the area so you can make a whole evening of it.
At this pizzeria in the Appio-Latino area between San Giovanni and the Appia Antica, respected pizzaiolo Marco Quintili strays from his usual Neapolitan style to create extremely thin dough with a 48-hour leavening process, topped with the best quality ingredients. Don't skip the fried starters, including the signature "gelato genovese," which arrives on popsicle sticks.
Hailing from the province of Caserta, where some of Italy's best pizzerias are located, Marco Quintili is quietly taking Rome by storm. His dough is heavenly light, with a soft, puffy crust, and he uses high-quality toppings like San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella di bufala, and sausage from Caserta to make traditional and creative pizzas that are among the city's best. There is also a stand in the Mercato Centrale.
Arrive promptly at 7 pm or expect to wait in line at this pizzeria favored by students and locals. There are no tablecloths or other nonessentials, just excellent classic Roman pizza and boisterous conversation. Start with some fried delicacies like zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovy or a battered piece of baccalà, then order the crispy-thin pizza that many consider the best in the city. You can't go wrong with the simple margherita, especially if you opt for the buffalo mozzarella version.
Pizzamaker Antonio Ruver may be young, but he has already spent years working alongside Rome’s pizza master Gabriele Bonci. Now setting out on his own solo venture, Ruver specializes in preportioned pizza by the slice. The expertly crunchy base comes topped with all the classics, but there is plenty of experimentation too, if you’re more in the mood for chicken curry pizza or hearty ragù on pizza bianca. The small shop is standing room only.
More upscale than a typical pizzeria but casual enough for a weeknight, this establishment pairs its pies with sparkling wines instead of beer. Opt for a classic pizza, or go with an innovative option, like one topped with squash, speck, pomegranate, and mint.
At this award-winning pizzeria in the Appio-Latino area between San Giovanni and the Appia Antica, the dough is thicker than traditional Roman-style pizza and sturdier than Neapolitan-style pizza. Creative offerings include a cacio e pepe pizza and the "Tropeana" topped with mozzarella di bufala, Tropea onions, taggiasca olives, 'nduja from Calabria, and lemon zest. There's also an ample selection of fritti, including mozzarella in carrozza, zucchini blossoms, and several types of supplì.
If you fancy a cocktail with your pizza, head to this hip pizzeria created by the team behind the award-winning bar, Freni & Frizioni, in Trastevere. Six of the eatery's 18 taps are used for beer; the rest dispense cocktails that have been pre-batched and carbonated, resulting in perfectly blended, easy-to-serve drinks. Choose one of the classics, like a Spritz or G&T, or an original creation like the Saint-Tony, a sparkling riff on a Garibaldi. The thin, Roman-style pizzas are made with four kinds of flour and topped with premium ingredients. Fritti, like supplì and mac and cheese, are top-notch too.
Sign up for Travel Tips & News
Thank you for your interest!
