Walking through the iron gates of Villa Elena, past a Medieval tower and manicured mosaic-pathed garden with sweeping Bergamo views, is like entering a fairy tale. The Liberty villa, with original frescoes, parquet and terrazzo floors and stained glass windows punctuated by Mid-Century Modern lamps, chairs, and credenzas, complements the white-gloved presentation across three dining rooms under the direction of celebrated chef Enrico Bartolini. From six amuse bouches, such as a bonbon of Stracchino cheese and tartufo (soft Lombard cheese with truffle) or Chinotto (Chinotto orange soda)-finished anchovies, to the garden of 20 tuberi e radici (tubers and roots), grilled seafood, and inventive vegetable dishes using peels and stems, the tasting menus are refined and playful. A vast wine list of more than 1,000 labels and desserts sprayed with edible perfume adds to the theatrics.