In Mantua, sücar brüsc (brusque sugar), is another way of saying salt—since sugar and salt are deceptive look-alikes. Savory-sweet also describes the city's culinary stars tortelli di zucca (pumpkin ravioli) and mostarda mantovana (relish with apples, pears, and mustard oil). Down the street from the Palazzo Ducale, at this restaurant-enoteca with steel chairs and wood tables, magnum crate towers, and a ceiling filled with other Mantuan phrases translated into Italian, savory-sweet flourishes. Start with one of the most popular dishes, bis di tortelli (ravioli encore), a plate with saccharine tortelli di zucca on one side and tortelli amari (bitter mint tortelli) on the other. For mains, there's the guancialino di maiale (slow-cooked pork cheek with sweet and sour cherries), or go for three-, four-, or five-course customizable tasting menus to make it easier to choose. An extensive caviar and wine list and made-to-order tiramisù.