Artestesa
Centro Storico
In a tiny studio in the courtyard of the 15th-century Real Monte Manso di Scala, in the heart of the Centro Storico, two local Neapolitan artists, Ulderico and Oni Wong, produce original takes on Neapolitan stereotypes.
16 Best Shopping in Naples, Italy
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Naples is a fascinating city for shopping. Shops are generally open from around 9:30 in the morning to 1:30, when they close for lunch, reopening around 4:30 and staying open until 7:30 or 8, although certain higher-volume addresses will do orario continuo (all-day opening). Most stores are closed on Sunday. Sales run twice a year, mid-January–mid-March for the fall-winter collections and mid-July–early September for the spring-summer collections, with half-price discounts common.
Most of the luxury shops in Naples lie along a crescent that descends the Via Toledo to Piazza Trieste e Trento and then continues along Via Chiaia to Via Filangieri and on to Piazza Amedeo, as well as continuing south toward Piazza dei Martiri and the Riviera di Chiaia, where fashionistas flock to the upscale boutiques there. A good city for male fashion, Naples tends to spoil its male clotheshorses (many would use the word peacocks). Argenio, Eddy Monetti, Marinella, and Mariano Rubinacci are among the must-stops for the guys. And Italy wouldn't be Italy without shoes, for which there are many worthy shops here.
Naples is paradise for bibliophiles too. Chiaia has the city's largest cluster of bookstores, ranging from mass-market to superelegant antiquarian shops. Secondhand book dealers tend to collect between Piazza Dante, Via Port'Alba, and Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli in the Centro Storico, where historians and rare-book lovers alike can also unearth hidden treasures.
The charming shops specializing in Nativity scenes are in the Centro Storico, on the Via San Gregorio Armeno. The classic handicraft of Naples is the presepe—or Nativity crèche scene—with elaborate sets and terra-cotta figurines and elements of still life. The tradition goes back to the medieval period, but its acknowledged golden age arrived in the 18th century. The tradition is alive and flourishing; although the sets and figurines retain their 18th-century aspect, the craftsmen keep their creativity up-to-date with famous renditions of current political figures and other celebrities. The scenes contain a profusion of domestic animals and food of all sorts, meticulously rendered. Some of the smaller articles make great Christmas tree ornaments.
Antiquarians or simple robivecchi (secondhand shops) are found along Costantinopoli, San Sebastiano, Via Tribunali, and other streets. High-end antiques dealers do business in Chiaia, among them Domenico Russo e Figli and Galleria Navarro. If you're interested in original antiques, several prestigious dealers are clustered along Via Domenico Morelli and in Piazza dei Martiri. Via San Sebastiano, close to the Conservatory, is the kingdom of musical instrument shops.
The densest selection of goldsmiths' and jewelers' shops is located around the old jewelry-makers' quarter, Via degli Orefici (Street of the Goldsmiths), between Corso Umberto and Via Marina, but the area is noisy and frenetic. Dealers in the Centro Storico offer good choices and competitive prices. Shopping in an outdoor market is an essential Neapolitan experience too; food markets are all over town, and Neapolitans are the world masters of the used-clothing trade and unofficial brand-name knockoffs, sometimes of excellent quality. You might find shoes made by the same factories that turn out top brands, quality leather purses, or secondhand cashmere at the price of discount-store cotton. Of course, quite often you have to wade through a lot of dismal stock in order to get to the good stuff, but that can be part of the fun. Take precautions to guard against pickpockets.
In Vomero, the area around Piazza Vanvitelli, and Via Scarlatti in particular, has some good shops. Funiculars from Piazza Amedeo, Via Toledo, and Montesanto serve this portion of Vomero.
Bottega 21
Centro Storico
Crafted bags and purses are made here while you watch.
Colonnese
Centro Storico
The antique wooden cabinets and tables at this old-fashioned bookstore are laden with volumes about art, local history, and esoterica.
Recommended Fodor's Video
Egraphe
Centro Storico
A tiny hole in the wall, Egraphe is crammed with notebooks of every style and size, different kinds of handmade papers, and unusual pens and pencils.
Ferrigno
Centro Storico
Shops selling Nativity scenes cluster along the Via San Gregorio Armeno off Spaccanapoli, and they're all worth a glance. The most famous is Ferrigno. Although Maestro Giuseppe Ferrigno died in 2008, the family business continues, still faithfully using 18th-century techniques.
Fondazione Morra Greco
Centro Storico
The influential collector Maurizio Morra Greco mounts shows by emerging artists in the recently renovated 15th-century Palazzo Caracciolo di Avellino.
Gallucci
Centro Storico
A small alleyway leading off the side of the Gesù Nuovo toward Via Toledo hides a little-known jewel that is worth the detour: Gallucci, founded in 1890, specializes in fruit-filled chocolates (cherry and grape are memorable) and a delightfully original local cult item: chestnuts filled with marsala. It also produces the most fantastically packaged Easter eggs—all with huge silver or gold bows—that you are ever likely to see.
Gay-Odin
Centro Storico
Chocolate lovers will be relieved to know that Gay-Odin, Naples's most famous cioccolateria, has nine stores around town, all recognizable by their inviting dark-wood Art Nouveau decor; try the signature chocolate forest cake (foresta) or the unusual "naked" chocolates (nudi), a suave mixture of chestnuts and walnuts, some with a whole coffee bean wrapped in the center.
Il Mosaico Artistico
Centro Storico
The art of mosaic making is still practiced in Naples, and can be seen in this tiny workshop.
La Scarabattola
Centro Storico
The store's Scuotto family creates Nativity scenes in both classic Neapolitan and contemporary styles, donating the Presepe Favoloso to the Basilica di Santa Maria in Sanità in 2021. Past customers include the Spanish royal family.
Lello Esposito
Centro Storico
Neapolitan artist Lello Esposito has his workshop here, just across the courtyard from what is more of a museum than a store. Renowned for his renderings of a popular puppet named Pulcinella (the prototype for Punch of Punch & Judy), you can see a statue of his creation at the top of Vico del Fico al Purgatorio, just off Via dei Tribunali. Lello also has an atelier in Brooklyn and has created works for Obama.
Libreria Neapolis
Centro Storico
A small store with many books about Neapolitan art and history, this place stocks a few English titles and has a wide selection of music CDs.
Liuteria Calace
Centro Storico
Since 1825, several generations of the Calace family have contributed to this prestigious shop's reputation for exquisitely made mandolins. This is an active workshop, so phone ahead for an appointment.
Mercatino della Pignasecca
Centro Storico
The best place in the city for fruit and vegetables, this market can be found several blocks northwest of Piazza Carità off Via Toledo.
Oblomova
Centro Storico
The club set heads to perky Oblomova for vintage and handmade clothing and accessories, but also for books, vinyl, CDs, and even cassettes.
Ospedale delle Bambole
Centro Storico
In the courtyard of the 16th-century Palazzo Marigliano is this world-famous hospital for dolls which has a small museum dedicated to its poignant mission. In business since 1850, it's a wonderful place to take kids (and their injured toys).
