3 Best Sights in Lombardy and the Lakes, Italy

The largest island within any European lake, Monte Isola allows no cars (except authorized vehicles), making it the perfect place for leisurely walks and bike rides. The main towns are Siviano, with medieval mansions; Peschiera Maraglio, an old fishing village with 16th-century homes and the Church of St. Michele; and Carzano, with the 18th-century San Giovanni Battista church. Walk around the water and stop at the many restaurants and gelaterie, or, for more exercise, trek uphill to admire the views back to the shore. Frequent ferries from Sulzano stop at Peschiera Maraglio, and ferries from Sale Marasino arrive at Carzano; there are less frequent ferries from Iseo and Tavernola Bergamasca.

The most famous of the three Isole Borromee (Borromean Islands), is named after Isabella, whose husband, Carlo III Borromeo (1538–84), built the palace and terraced gardens here for her as a wedding present. Before Count Carlo began his project, the island was rocky and almost devoid of vegetation; the soil for the garden had to be transported from the mainland. For a splendid view of the lake, wander up the 10 terraces of Teatro Massimo. In the gardens, white peacocks roam among the scented shrubs. Visit Palazzo Borromeo to see the rooms where famous guests—including Napoléon and Mussolini—stayed in 18th-century splendor.

Stop for lunch at the smallest Borromean island, also known as Isola Superiore. It's less than 100 yards wide and only about ½ km (¼ mile) long. It's an ideal place to visit before, after, or in between touring the other two islands. Of the 10 or so restaurants on this island the two worth visiting are Il Verbano ( 0323/31226) and Belvedere ( 0323/32292). The island with little lanes strung with fishing nets and dotted with shrines to the Madonna is a crowded place filled with souvenir stands and shops in high season.