To Tsoukali
The first words on most locals' mouths when you ask them where they like to eat are To Tsoukali. Owner Yannis Lambrakis prowls the kitchen dressed in black, emerging to chat at length with diners and talk them through a menu that takes some classic Greek dishes and, through assiduous preparation and little tweaks here and there, emerge as intensely flavorsome as you'll find anywhere, typically served alongside tagliatelle smothered in local cheese. As well as the best rooster you'll ever taste, the menu is forever changing, so just let Yannis talk you through it. Make a reservation because it fills up fast.