Kapnikarea
Down-to-earth, local, lively, Kapnikarea is named after the sunken Byzantine church that it flanks. Come here to relax after some sightseeing or shopping on busy Ermou Street where live rembetika (the Greek blues from Asia Minor) music swirls mesmerically around a little alleyway every day at different hours. Locals love sitting here enjoying a cold beer and meze, morphing into impromptu choirs, intoning their favorite songs. This little spot has been around for ages and is not to be missed.