Enjoy a time-out in the social center of the Old Town, where a symmetrical forest of plane trees shades cafés and restaurants, skateboarders, children, and grandfatherly pétanque players. Also called Place Carnot, the square becomes a very affordable feast for both eyes and palate during the markets held here on Tuesday and Saturday mornings. At night, a café seat is as coveted as a quayside seat during the day.
Heading back to the Vieux Port area, take in the boutiques lining Rues Sibilli, Gambetta, and Clemenceau (where you can taste the most decadent tarte tropézienne at Marcel & Cavazza)—you never know when that photographer from Voici will be snapping away at the trendoisie. If you're here on the first weekend in May, check out Les Chefs de Saint-Tropez's three-day fêtent les producteurs ( www.leschefsasainttropez.com) event featuring local produce, culinary demonstrations, tastings, and a chef's pétanque competition.