31 Best Sights in Nice, The French Riviera

In the 1960s, the city of Nice bought this lovely, light-bathed, 17th-century villa, surrounded by the ruins of Roman civilization, and restored it to house a large collection of Henri Matisse's works. The Fauvist artist settled along Nice's waterfront in 1917, seeking a sun cure after a bout with pneumonia, and remained here until his death in 1954. During his years on the French Riviera, Matisse maintained intense friendships and artistic liaisons with Renoir, who lived in Cagnes, and with Picasso, who lived in Mougins and Antibes. He eventually moved up to the rarefied isolation of Cimiez and took an apartment in the Hôtel Regina (now an apartment building, just across from the museum), where he lived out the rest of his life. He walked often in the parklands around the Roman remains and was buried in an olive grove outside the Cimiez cemetery.

The museum's collection includes several pieces the artist donated to the city before his death; the rest were donated by his family. In every medium and context—paintings, gouache cutouts, engravings, and book illustrations—the collection represents the evolution of his art, from Cézanne-like still lifes to exuberant dancing paper dolls. Even the furniture and accessories speak of Matisse, from the Chinese vases to the bold-printed fabrics with which he surrounded himself. A series of telling black-and-white photographs captures the artist at work.  You can't enter the museum with a backpack or travel bag, so have a €1 coin handy for a locker.

This long pedestrian thoroughfare—half street, half square—is the nerve center of Old Nice, the heart of the Vieille Ville, and the stage for the city's marketplace and café life. Shoppers come to smell the roses (and mimosas and orange blossoms) before browsing at stalls selling local produce, spices, olives, and little gift soaps in the single row setup, the overflow of which sprawls into leafy Place Pierre Gautier. Market days are Tuesday through Saturday, 6 am to 5:30 pm and Sunday 6 am to 1:30 pm. Arrive early, especially in summer, to avoid being at the mercy of the crowd (and a target for the rampant pickpockets).

On Monday morning, antiques and brocantes (collectibles) draw avid vintage hounds, and, from June to September, there's also an artisanal craft market selling jewelry, pottery, purses, and paintings. At Place Charles Félix on the east end of Cours Saleya is the imposing yellow stone building where Matisse lived on the third and then fourth floor from 1921 to 1938. Today, there’s no plaque that bears his name, only a broken shutter of his workshop to serve as a commemoration. Its future remains uncertain, but for many Niçois, this building is a part of Nice’s heritage.

In the 1920s and '30s, the swanky Palais de la Méditerranée drew performers like Charlie Chaplin and Edith Piaf. The establishment, however, lost its glory and, in 1990, everything but its swanky facades was demolished to accommodate new construction that included hotel rooms and restaurants as well the casino. Choose from 170 slot machines, 38 electric roulette tables, three blackjack tables, two English roulette tables, and an Ultimate Poker and Texas Hold'em table.

At the east end of the promenade, near Hotel Suisse, there is both a large public beach and a private one, where the water is calm and clear (you can rent a lounger at the latter for about €25, with umbrella). The public beach is composed of large stones, which are more comfortable to walk on than pebbles. Jellyfish are also less of a problem in this corner due to the currents. Amenities: lifeguards (private beach, seasonal); showers. Best for: snorkeling; sunrise; sunset; swimming.

This magnificent Russian Orthodox cathedral was built in 1896 to accommodate the sizable population of Russian aristocrats who had adopted Nice as their winter home. This Byzantine fantasy is the largest of its kind outside the motherland, with six gold-leaf onion domes, rich ceramic mosaics on its facade, and extraordinary icons framed in silver and jewels. The benefactor was Nicholas II himself, whose family attended the inauguration in 1912. For six years the church was challenged over ownership, but in 2013 the French courts rejected a final appeal by ACOR, a niçois religious association that managed the property for 80 years. The Russian Archpriest rejoiced: "This ruling shows that it is history that has triumphed."

An ensemble of columns, cupolas, and symmetrical ornaments dominates the Vieille Ville, flanked by an 18th-century bell tower and glossy ceramic-tile dome. The cathedral's interior, completely restored to a bright palette of ocher, golds, and rusts, has elaborate plasterwork and decorative frescoes on every surface.

A superbly balanced pièce-montée (wedding cake) of half-domes and cupolas, this chapel is decorated within an inch of its life with frescoes, faux marble, gilt, and crystal chandeliers. A magnificent altarpiece by Renaissance painter Ludivico Brea crowns the ensemble. Visits are limited to 2:30 to 5:30 pm on Tuesday.

Officially known as the Église de l'Annonciation, this 17th-century Carmelite chapel is a classic example of pure Niçoise Baroque, from its sculpted door to its extravagant marble work and the florid symmetry of its arches and cupolas.

This solemn cluster of white tombs looms prominently over the city below, providing a serene or macabre detail of daily life, depending on your mood. Under Nice's blue skies, the gleaming white marble and Italian mix of melodrama and exuberance in the decorations, dedications, photo portraits, and sculptures are somehow oddly life-affirming. Founded in 1783, there are 2,800 graves here—with prominent names like Jellinek-Mercedes and Leroux—in three sections, to this day segregating Catholics, Protestants, and Jews.

East of the Promenade, past the port and La Réserve restaurant and a few steps below street level, is one of Nice's quieter strands, with very clear water, few tourists (locals tend to spread their towels here), and hardly any jellyfish. The catch? The beach is more slabs of rock than sand, and the coastline here is exposed to wind. Many fish move about below, making this an excellent place for snorkeling. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards (seasonal); parking (street); showers. Best for: snorkeling; solitude; swimming.

Although nothing remains of the once-massive medieval stronghold but a few ruins left after its 1706 dismantling, the name château still applies to this high plateau-like park, from which you can take in extraordinary views of the Baie des Anges, the length of Promenade des Anglais, and the red-ocher roofs of the Old Town. Children can blow off energy at the playground, while you enjoy a picnic with panoramic views and a bit of shade. You can also partake in the Communist party's annual Fête du Chateau in June or try yoga or one of the exercise bootcamps available throughout the year. It's 213 steps to the top or you can use the free elevator next to the Hotel Suisse; alternatively, ascend the hill slower from the port side, near Place Garibaldi, which is a more gentle climb.

If Nice's other chapels are jewel boxes, this is a barn. Broad, open, and ringing hollow after the intense concentration of sheer matter in the Miséricorde and Ste-Rita, it seems austere by comparison. That's only because the decoration is spread over a more expansive surface. If it's possible, this 17th-century Baroque chapel is even more theatrical and over-the-top than its peers. Angels throng in plaster and fresco, pillars spill over with extravagantly sculpted capitals, and from the pulpit (to the right, at the front) the crucifix is supported by a disembodied arm.

This serene Baroque structure at the foot of the château anchors the oldest church-parish in Nice. Built in 1405, it was here that Martin Luther preached in 1510 and Garibaldi was baptized in 1807.

Along Promenade des Anglais, this luxurious garden stands over the delta of the River Paillon, underground since 1882. Every kind of flower and palm tree grows here, thrown into exotic relief by night illumination. Home base for many city festivals with its Théâtre de Verdure, the garden is the starting point for Nice's Promenade du Paillon.

Via steel walkways, explore (by tour only) this half-acre archaeological crypt beneath Place Garibaldi. It contains the remains of a 14th-century tower and aqueduct that were razed by Louis XIV and only uncovered during excavations for Nice's tram system at the beginning of this century. The Centre du Patrimoine (Heritage Center) offers one-hour guided tours for up to 15 people, but you must reserve with them directly at 14 rue Jules-Gilly. The meeting point—Place Jacques Toja—is just off Place Garibaldi.  Wear "sensible shoes," as heels can't be worn in the crypt.

Renovated to the tune of €5 million, Le Ruhl is the biggest "machine park" on the Côte d'Azur luring in the summer vacationers and the winter convention crowd with vivid colors and fiber-optic lighting. Some flock into the hushed gaming room for poker and blackjack; others try their luck at one of the 282 slot and 36 electronic English roulette machines.

This fully functioning monastery is worth the pilgrimage. You can find a lovely garden, replanted along the lines of the original 16th-century layout; the Musée Franciscain, a didactic museum tracing the history of the Franciscan order; and a 15th-century church containing three works of remarkable power and elegance by Bréa.

If Sir Elton John chose it as the place for his summer residence, you know the views from Mont Boron must be sensational. From the port, take Bus 30 to the Miramar stop or Bus 15 to Château de L’Anglais. Along Boulevard du Mont Boron, enjoy the gorgeous panorama over the Port de Nice, and then head up to the Route Forestière; there will be red and yellow hiking symbols along the way. Near La Petite Batterie, you’ll arrive at a spectacular viewpoint across Villefranche Bay. Continue on foot along the forest path for another 2 km (1.2 miles) to reach the 16th-century Fort du Mont-Alban. Alternatively, from town you can take Bus 33, which drops you closer to the historic site.

Next to the Musée Matisse, this museum has a large collection of objects extracted from digs around the Roman city of Cemenelum, which flourished from the 1st to the 5th centuries. Among the fascinating ruins are an amphitheater, frigidarium, gymnasium, baths, and sewage trenches, some dating from the 3rd century.  It's best to avoid midday visits on warm days.

During the digging for the foundation of a building in 1966, the shovels uncovered the remains of a temporary settlement once used by elephant hunters thousands of years ago. Now the site is a museum with models and other displays—including one with an actual human footprint, calcified in the sand—that reconstruct the ancient beach-camp known as Terra Amata (Beloved Land). Films explain the lifestyle of what are among the oldest known inhabitants of Europe. Recorded commentaries and the museum's app are available in English.

Originally built for a member of Nice's Old Russian community, the Princess Kotschoubey, this Italianate mansion is a Belle Époque wedding cake, replete with one of the grandest staircases on the coast. After the richissime American James Thompson took over and the last glittering ball was held here, the villa was bought by the municipality as a museum in the 1920s. Unfortunately, many of the period features were sold, but in their place are paintings by Degas, Boudin, Monet, Sisley, Dufy, and Jules Chéret, whose posters of winking damselles distill all the joie of the Belle Époque. From the Hôtel Negresco area, the museum is about a 15-minute walk up a gentle hill; guided tours in English can be arranged.

This spectacular Belle Époque villa houses the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire (Museum of Art and History), where familiar paintings from French, Italian, and Dutch masters line the walls. Be sure to see the palace gardens, set with towering palm trees, a marble bust of the handsome General Masséna, and the Jardin de la Légion d’Honneur (a memorial to victims of the July 14 tragedy), all backdropped by the ornate trim of the Hôtel Negresco; this is one of Nice's most imposing oases.

Inaugurated in 1973, this museum has one of the finest permanent collections of Chagall's (1887–1985) late works. Superbly displayed, 17 vast canvases depict biblical themes, each in emphatic, joyous colors. Chamber music and classical concert series also take place here, though extra admission fees may apply. Bus stops outside.

A listed heritage building, this palace was built in 1648 for Jean-Baptiste Lascaris-Vintimille, marechal to the Duke of Savoy. The magnificent vaulted staircase, with its massive stone balustrade and niches filled with classical gods, is surpassed in grandeur only by the Flemish tapestries (after Rubens) and the extraordinary trompe-l'oeil fresco depicting the fall of Phaëthon. With a little luck, you'll be in time for one of the many classical concerts performed here. Note, however, that the building has no elevator.

Surrounded by grand vaulted arcades stuccoed in rich yellow, this square could have been airlifted out of Turin. In the center, the shrinelike fountain sculpture of Garibaldi seems to be surveying you as you stroll under the very attractive arcades and lounge in the surrounding cafés. Les Artisanales, the market for local crafts (jewelry, ceramics, leather goods, clothes, accessories) sets up the first Sunday of the month (9–7), and an antiques market takes place on the third Saturday of every month (7–5). Behind Place Garibaldi is the so-called Antique Quarter, with important antiques stores and emporiums like the Puces de Nice along the streets Antoine-Gautier, Emmanuel-Philibert, Catherine-Ségurane, Martin-Seytour, and Foresta.

As Cours Saleya is the heart of the Vieille Ville, so this impressive and broad square is the heart of the entire city. It's framed by early-17th-century, Italian-style arcaded buildings, their facades stuccoed in rich red ocher. The lively and boisterous space hosts an event—from Carnaval to the Christmas market—at least once a month, and Promenade du Paillon runs through it. Nespresso has a boutique here if you need a free coffee to perk you up.

Across from Cours Saleya, the Riviera's largest private beach (it's closed November through March, though its restaurant remains open for lunch year-round) is one of Nice's nicest; you can gain access by renting a pricey lounger for the day via phone. The beach itself is stony, so wear water shoes. If there are jellyfish sightings, you'll see a written warning of "méduse" on a beach board; ditto for strong winds. Steps from Beau Rivage on the Prom is Nice's own Statue of Liberty (look carefully, as she's only 4½ feet tall). Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; swimming.

Almost at the end of the promenade and in front of Old Town, this basic stony stretch is a popular spot, with a melange of tourists and locals of all ages all day. In summer it has sandy volleyball courts. Keep an eye out for jellyfish. Amenities: lifeguards (seasonal); toilets. Best for: snorkeling; sunrise; sunset; swimming.

Locals come early—with umbrellas, chairs, and coolers in tow—to these two sizable public beaches around the halfway point of the promenade. As both are stone beaches with occasional jellyfish, water shoes are best for getting in and out of the sea. Lenval is a no-smoking beach with pay-to-use underground hot showers, toilets, and lockers, as well as portable toilets in the summer; it has no lifeguards or first aid station. These are, however, provided at neighboring Magnan, which is wider and lower than street level. This area is less touristy, so expect to see topless torsos. Amenities: lifeguards (Magnan, seasonal); showers; toilets. Best for: sunrise; swimming. When the winds pick up, this area can be dangerous, so watch for the warning flags, and avoid swimming for 24 hours after a storm.

In 1750, the Duke of Savoy ordered a port to be dug to shelter the approach of the city's maritime traffic. It's still a safe harbor for freighters, fishing boats, and yachts, and its redevelopment has made it easier to take in the area's Genoese architecture or peruse the antiques at the Puces de Nice emporium and other shops along Rue Robilant, near the large Port Lympia parking lot. From June to mid-October (daily 10–7), the free shuttle boat Lou Passagin ferries you across the port from the Quai Lunel to Quai d’Entrecasteaux.