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In summer, hotel rooms are at a premium, and making reservations is essential; almost all accommodations in the swankier towns—Versailles, Rambouillet, and Fontainebleau—are on the costly side. Take nothing for granted; picturesque Senlis, for instance, does not have a single hotel in its historic downtown area.
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Aigle Noir
$$ | 27 pl. Napoléon Bonaparte, Fontainebleau, 77300, France
This may be Fontainebleau's costliest hotel, but it does promise old-world elegance, graceful service, and oodles of atmosphere. Housed in a 17th-century mansion near the palace, the spacious guest rooms conjure up the past through period furnishings, toile fabrics, and antique engravings, without skimping on any of the modern conveniences. You can't go wrong if you request one overlooking either the garden or the palace.
Auberge du Jeu de Paume
$$ | 4 rue du Connétable, Chantilly, 60500, France
Fodor's Choice
Courtesy of Auberge du Jeu de Paume
Set within the Domaine de Chantilly, the largest princely estate in France, Auberge du Jeu de Paume combines its stunning setting with old-world elegance and modern comforts to create a deluxe country retreat. All of the beautifully appointed guest rooms have elegant furnishings, spacious marble baths, and floor-to-ceiling windows—the last being particularly appreciated because many accommodations overlook the château grounds, the historic Grand Stables, and Le Nôtre–designed gardens. For dining, look no further than the hotel's gastronomic Table du Connétable or the Jardin d'Hiver bistro, both featuring the ambitious cuisine of chef Clément Le Norcy, in whose expert hands dishes like succulent lamb with parsnip and black truffle, or crayfish with egg ravioli, chervil, and sweet onion are raised to an art form. There's also a cozy bar for a snack, teatime, or just an apéro. Other on-site perks include a spa, pool, and steam room.
Best Western Le Grand Monarque
$ | 22 pl. des Épars, Nantes, 28000, France
On Chartres's main square, not far from the cathedral, this Best Western Premier hotel in a converted coaching inn warmly evokes the 19th century; many guest rooms are outfitted with brick walls, attractive antiques, lush drapes, and modern bathrooms (the best are in a separate turn-of-the-20th-century building overlooking a garden, while the most atmospheric are tucked away in the attic). Downstairs, the stylishly decorated—and Michelin-starred—Georges Restaurant serves such delicacies as pheasant pie and offers prix-fixe menus. It's closed Sunday and Monday, but the hotel's brasserie La Cour is open daily.
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Cazaudehore La Forestière
$$ | 1 av. du Président Kennedy, St-Germain-en-Laye, 78100, France
Fodor's Choice
St-Germain's only Relais & Château hotel is a quintessential Île-de-France country retreat: surrounded by forest, it's rambling and solid, with shuttered windows and 18th-century-style furnishings. The fine restaurant (closed Monday) features chef Grégory Balland's deft hand in such dishes as sole with mushroom risotto or hare stuffed with olives and foie gras. Dining on the garden veranda can prove a most seductive experience.
Domaine de Primard
$$ | Rte. Départementale 16, 28260, France
Fodor's Choice
This storybook 18th-century chateau (once the country home of Catherine Deneuve) has everything you need to experience the beauty and magic of the French countryside far from the hustle and bustle. And yet it's only a 50-minute drive from Paris and 35 minutes by car from lovely Vernon and Giverny, making it the perfect spot for a weekend getaway. Once here, there's little reason to leave the wooded 74-acre property, complete with flower gardens, an outdoor pool, woodland walks, and a farm fully equipped with livestock, orchards, and vegetable gardens. Rooms are the epitome of contemporary elegance, with views of the gardens or the nearby Eure River. The restaurants on the property, a gastronomic dining room run by chef Romain Meder and Octave bistro, both make good use of the garden bounty. Round off your idyllic stay with a relaxing spa treatment at the Susan Kaufmann spa set in a former woodshed.
Hameau et Régie de Courances
$$ | 13 rue du Château, Courances, 91490, France
Fodor's Choice
You'll find peace at these three charming cottages (and an elegant manor house split into two apartments) set in several 17th-century outbuildings of the Château de Courances in the chateau's splendid gardens. Each of these beautifully restored and decorated family-style cottages—a chic mix of antique and contemporary—sleeps between two and eight people and can be rented individually (for a two-night minimum) or together. La Régie, an impeccably refurbished manor house, is split into two light-drenched 1,150-sq-ft apartments, complete with period antiques, restored original woodwork and floors, comfy living areas, spacious modern baths, a fully equipped kitchen, fireplace, and an outdoor terrace. Only 8 miles from Barbizon and 12 miles from Fontainebleau, this is an excellent base for visiting the area.
Hôtel de Harlay
$ | 3 rue de Harlay, Compiègne, 60200, France
A family-run hotel in a foursquare stone building, the Harlay is conveniently situated by the bridge linking the train station and downtown. Guest rooms are soberly decorated—the best overlook the River Oise and are soundproofed with double glazing.
Hôtel de Londres
$ | 1 pl. du Général de Gaulle, Fontainebleau, 77300, France
Fodor's Choice
Established in 1850, the superbly located Londres has been run with pride by the same family for three generations, and guests are treated to a warm welcome by owners who go out of their way to make your stay pleasant. Charmingly homey yet elegant, the ample-sized rooms are tastefully decorated with antiques and Oriental rugs; some have fireplaces, and six have balconies with marvelous views of the Fontainebleau palace entrance and the Cour des Adieux, where Napoléon bade his troops an emotional farewell (the best views are from Rooms 10 and 11 on the top floor). The hotel's stately 19th-century facade is a registered landmark.
Hôtel La Residence du Berry
$ | 14 rue Anjou, Versailles, 78000, France
On a quiet main street in the picturesque Saint-Louis district, this 18th-century hotel with wood-beam ceilings, antique engravings, and cozy rooms melds old-world charm with modern amenities. The bar and billiard room, with Oriental rugs and a fireplace, are pleasant spots for a nightcap, and breakfast can be taken on a charming outdoor terrace. A five-minute walk from the château, and almost across the street from the Potager du Roi and Place Saint-Louis, the hotel is ideal for a weekend getaway. Rooms at the end of the corridor have nice views.
L'Hostellerie de la Porte Bellon
$ | 51 rue Bellon, Senlis, 60300, France
This old stone house, near the bus station and five minutes by foot from the cathedral, is the closest you can get to spending a night in the historic center of Senlis; prettiest is Room 14, which overlooks the garden and has sloping walls and exposed beams. Chef-owner Jean Bataille presides over the venerable restaurant, which has light oak tables, wrought-iron chairs, and a set menu that's heavy on fish and game.
L'Orangerie White-Palacio
$ | 37 av. de Paris, Versailles, 78300, France
Across a charming garden from the main house, this pretty cottage offers two quiet and comfortable suites with private bathrooms, a common kitchen, and full garden access for meals or relaxation. Clean and appealingly decorated—and only a few minutes' walk to the château and sights—it's a cozy alternative to a hotel.
La Musardière
$ | 123 rue Claude Monet, Giverny, 27620, France
Just a short stroll from chez Monet, this beautifully refurbished 1880 manor house (the name means "Place to Idle") has reinvented itself as a more contemporary "hotel de charme." The cozy lobby, comfy spiffed-up guest rooms with views overlooking a leafy garden, and "bistronomic" restaurant make it a popular choice, so reserve in advance.
Le Cheval Rouge
$ | 18 rue André-Chénier, Versailles, 78000, France
Built in 1676, this unpretentious option is in a corner of the market square, close to the château and strongly recommended if you plan to explore the town on foot. Some rooms around the old stable courtyard have their original wood beams; several have been brought up to date and redecorated in pastel colors (the most spacious, No. 108, is also one of the few rooms with a bath rather than just a shower).
Le Clos Fleuri
$ | 5 rue de la Dîme, Giverny, 27620, France
Giverny's hotel shortage is offset by several stylish and affordable bed-and-breakfasts—this one, located just 600 yards from Monet's estate, is among the best. With a large garden and Giverny's picturesque church steeple looming in the background, Le Clos beckons enticingly. Inside, three sweet rooms (all named for flowers and each with its own entrance and private patio) welcome weary travelers: "Poppies" and "Waterlilies" have Louis Philippe–style beam ceilings and overlook the gardens, while "Clematis" has a very dramatic cathedral ceiling.
Le Grand Contrôle Versailles
$$$$ | 12 rue de l'Indépendance Américaine, Versailles, 78000, France
Fodor's Choice
Set in the 17th-century quarters of Louis XIV's finance minister, this exquisite hotel—which actually abuts the château grounds—faithfully recreates the "palace" experience, from bathing (your personal butler will draw your bath for you) to dining (with Alain Ducasse--designed menus) to the staff (dressed like footmen). The gorgeous common areas and guest rooms—all with period antiques and bespoke fabrics and wallpapers—hew to the epoch, with the exception of the state-of-the-art amenities. Rooms are blessedly TV-free, but anything seems to be available for guests if you just ask. The lovely Valmont spa includes a 50-foot indoor pool, sauna, hammam, and a small fitness area. France is full of château hotels, but this is the only one that offers views of Versailles's orangerie gardens from your bathtub and exclusive before- or after-hours visits to the palace.
Le Jardin des Plumes
$$ | 1 rue du Milieu, Giverny, 27620, France
This Norman-style half-timbered inn with its stylish contemporary interiors, lovely gardens, and Michelin-starred restaurant make this a destination unto itself. All the better that it's a mere 10-minute walk from Monet's fabled gardens. Spacious, light-filled guest rooms pleasantly mix upscale design with Art Deco touches and provide a warm, welcoming retreat tucked away in a splendid setting offering plenty of peace and quiet. The chic one-Michelin-star restaurant, open for lunch and dinner (except on Monday and Tuesday), is a great asset.
Les Pléiades
$ | 21 Grande rue, Barbizon, 77630, France
Barbizon's best hotel offers unusually spacious rooms (all tastefully decorated in a contemporary style), a wellness area (with an extensive menu of spa treatments), and an indoor-outdoor pool, making it a good choice for couples or families. A top dining choice in town, the hotel's restaurant is a draw for both locals and nonguests alike.
Ô Plum'Art
$$ | 12 rue Claude Monet, Giverny, 27620, France
Fodor's Choice
Top Chef and owner of Jardin des Plumes hotel and restaurant David Gallienne now runs this ultra-contemporary six-room B&B in a 19th-century milkman's cottage set in the countryside overlooking the Seine River. The original decor would be quite at home in the pages of a design magazine, but there are still plenty of the cozy touches: fireplaces, antiques, comfy bedding, beautiful baths, well-appointed kitchens, and a charming on-site tearoom and spa. All rooms are bright and cheerful with views over the leafy yards. For privacy, romance, and calm—with your own private yard under pretty trees—this (and its mothership the Jardin des Plumes hotel) is your best bet in Giverny. The B&B is a 45-minute train ride from Paris and a 15-minute walk to Monet's gardens.
Sequoia Lodge
$$ | Av. Robert Schuman, Marne-la-Vallée, 77777, France
Ranging from super-luxe to just barely affordable, Disneyland Paris has 5,000 rooms throughout several hotels, but your best bet on all counts may be the Sequoia Lodge—a grand re-creation of an American mountain lodge, just a few minutes' walk from the theme park. Past towering evergreens, you enter a charming lobby, replete with an open fire crackling on a giant stone hearth in the Redwood Bar. Guest rooms have natural wood furniture that's meant to evoke log cabins; book yours in the main Montana building (overlooking Lake Disney) rather than one of the smaller annex "lodges." For youngsters there's a children's corner, outdoor play area, and video-game room. For food, the choice is between the family-oriented, buffet-service Hunter's Grill and the more upscale Beaver Creek Tavern. As at all Disneyland Paris hotels, free transportation to the park is available. Note that room prices can fluctuate widely depending on season and school vacation periods—keep hunting to find lower-priced days.
Waldorf Astoria Versailles-Trianon Palace
$$$ | 1 bd. de la Reine, Versailles, 78000, France
Like a modern-day Versailles, this deluxe turn-of-the-20th-century hotel is a creamy white creation of imposing size, filled with soaring rooms (including the historic Salle Clemenceau, site of the 1919 Versailles Peace Conference). Now part of the Waldorf-Astoria brand, the once faded “palace” is aglitter again with a health club (the pool is poised beneath a glass pyramid), a Guerlain spa, and a lobby glammed up with Murano chandeliers and high-back leather armchairs. The hotel headlines menus by superstar chef Gordon Ramsey and carries a Michelin star, though the chef himself is not in the kitchen. As for the guest rooms, try to avoid the newer annex (the Pavillon Trianon), and insist on the full treatment in the main building.
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