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As you enter this town's mammoth and medieval cathedral, the Église des Stes-Maries, you'll notice an oddity that wrenches you back to this century: a sign on the door forbids visitors to come torse nu (topless). For outside its otherworldly role as the pilgrimage center hallowed as the European landfall of the Virgin Mary, Stes-Maries is first and foremost a beach resort, dead-flat, whitewashed, and more than a little tacky. Unless you've made a pilgrimage to the sun and sand, you probably won't want to spend much time in the town center. And if you've chosen Stes-Maries as a base for viewing the Camargue, consider one of the discreet country inns outside the city limits.
This mammoth, Romanesque fortress-church, built in the 9th century, is almost devoid of windows, and its tall, barren nave is cluttered with florid and sentimental ex-votos (tokens of blessings, prayers, and thanks) and primitive artworks depicting the famous trio of Marys. For €3, you can climb up to the terrace for a panoramic view of the Camargue (hours vary depending on the season).
At this authentic working manade (small ranch), on a back road off Route D38 about 10 km (6 miles) from Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, you'll learn about Camargue taureau (bull) breeding and bullfighting culture (in French only) and then head out in a tractor-drawn cart to meadows where the fierce-looking black creatures lazily observe you before turning back to their grazing. Afterward, you can relax on the terrace with a glass of Camargue-region wine or a lunch featuring local dishes, including bull stew. If you’re inspired to stay overnight, eight tidy guestrooms in stone cottages feature rustic furniture made from driftwood collected on the beaches of Stes-Marie-de la Mer.
Set in a contemporary building a block from the beach, this museum is an essential stop to learn about the long and fascinating history of this seaside town and the Camargue in general. More than 500 exhibits cover the area’s maritime and land-faring past—from the Etruscans and Greeks to the gardians—through archeological finds, marine artifacts, and the mid-20th century collections of the Marquis de Baroncelli, a local icon and one of the first protectors of the Camargue and its unique culture.
