Paris Restaurants

A new wave of culinary confidence has been running through one of the world's great food cities and spilling over both banks of the Seine. Whether cooking up grand-mère's roast chicken and riz au lait or placing a whimsical hat of cotton candy atop wild-strawberry-and-rose ice cream, Paris chefs—established and up-and-coming, native and foreign—have been breaking free from the tyranny of tradition and following their passion.

Emblematic of the "bistronomy" movement is the proliferation of "gastrobistros"—often in far-flung or newly chic neighborhoods—helmed by established chefs fleeing the constraints of the star system or passionate young chefs unfettered by overblown expectations. Among the seasoned stars and exciting newcomers to the scene are Yannick Alléno, who left behind two Michelin stars at Le Meurice to open his locavore bistro Terroir Parisien at the Palais Brogniart and earned three stars at the storied Pavillon Ledoyen within his first year at the helm; David Toutain at the exceptional Restaurant David Toutain; Sylvestre Wahid at Brasserie Thoumieux; and Katsuaki Okiyama's Abri.

But self-expression is not the only driving force behind the current trend. A traditional high-end restaurant can be prohibitively expensive to operate. As a result, more casual bistros and cafés, which reflect the growing allure of less formal dining and often have lower operating costs and higher profit margins, have become attractive opportunities for even top chefs.

For tourists, this development can only be good news, because it makes the cooking of geniuses such as Joël Robuchon, Guy Savoy, Eric Frechon, and Pierre Gagnaire a bit more accessible (even if these star chefs rarely cook in their lower-price restaurants) and opens up a vast range of new possibilities for exciting dining.

Like the chefs themselves, Paris diners are breaking away from tradition with renewed enthusiasm. New restaurants, wine bars, and rapidly multiplying épicieries (gourmet grocers) and sandwich shops recognize that not everyone wants a three-course blowout every time they dine out. And because Parisians are more widely traveled than in the past, many ethnic restaurants—notably the best North African, Vietnamese–Laotian, Chinese, Spanish, and Japanese spots—are making fewer concessions to French tastes, resulting in far better food.

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  • 1. Assemblages

    $ | Marais Quarter

    At this restaurant set on a pretty street leading right into the Place des Vosges, it's hard to know if you've landed in someone's chic...Read More

  • 2. Frenchie Bar à Vins

    $$ | Grands Boulevards

    If this weren't one of Paris's most outstanding wine bars, the wait and metal tractor seats might be a deterrent. Yet wine lovers would be...Read More

  • 3. Juvéniles

    $$$ | Louvre

    A favorite with the French and expats alike, this neighborhood bistro blends great dining with an inspired wine list and a handy location a stone's...Read More

  • 4. Le Baron Rouge

    $ | Bastille

    This laid-back wine bar near the Place d'Aligre market is a throwback to another era, with just a few tables plus giant wine barrels along...Read More

  • 5. Les Papilles

    $$$$ | Latin Quarter

    Part wineshop and épicerie, part restaurant, Les Papilles has a winning formula—pick any bottle off the well-stocked shelf, and pay €7 corkage to sip it...Read More

  • 6. Au Passage

    $$ | République

    This bistrot à vins has the lived-in look of a longtime neighborhood hangout—which it was until two veterans of the raging Paris wine-bar scene reinvented...Read More

  • 7. Bubar

    $ | Marais Quarter

    In summer, look for the crowd spilling out the front of this signless wine bar named for Jean-Louis, the bartender (bubar or barbu is French...Read More

  • 8. Jeanne A

    $ | Canal St-Martin

    This six-table épicerie-bistro–wine bar–traiteur (the latter roughly translates as "gourmet food to go") on a pretty cobbled street is just the thing for an uncomplicated...Read More

  • 9. Le Dauphin

    $$ | Canal St-Martin

    The avant-garde chef Inaki Aizpitarte transformed what was a dowdy café into a sleek, if chilly, all-marble watering hole (designed by Rem Koolhaus) for late-night...Read More

  • 10. Racines

    $$$ | Grands Boulevards

    Originally a cave à manger (a wine bar/bistro) serving natural wines and top-quality French fare, the foodie world rejoiced when adulated chef Simone Tondo took...Read More

  • 11. Verjus Bar à Vins

    $ | Louvre

    On an atmospheric street behind the Palais Royal gardens, this tiny wine bar invites customers to perch on metal stools at a narrow bar and...Read More

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