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A new wave of culinary confidence has been running through one of the world's great food cities and spilling over both banks of the Seine. Whether cooking up grand-mère's roast chicken and riz au lait or placing a whimsical hat of cotton candy atop wild-strawberry-and-rose ice cream, Paris chefs—established and up-and-coming, native and foreign—have been breaking free from the tyranny of tradition and following their passion.
Emblematic of the "bistronomy" movement is the proliferation of "gastrobistros"—often in far-flung or newly chic neighborhoods—helmed by established chefs fleeing the constraints of the star system or passionate young chefs unfettered by overblown expectations. Among the seasoned stars and exciting newcomers to the scene are Yannick Alléno, who left behind two Michelin stars at Le Meurice to open his locavore bistro Terroir Parisien at the Palais Brogniart and earned three stars at the storied Pavillon Ledoyen within his first year at the helm; David Toutain at the exceptional Restaurant David Toutain; Sylvestre Wahid at Brasserie Thoumieux; and Katsuaki Okiyama's Abri.
But self-expression is not the only driving force behind the current trend. A traditional high-end restaurant can be prohibitively expensive to operate. As a result, more casual bistros and cafés, which reflect the growing allure of less formal dining and often have lower operating costs and higher profit margins, have become attractive opportunities for even top chefs.
For tourists, this development can only be good news, because it makes the cooking of geniuses such as Joël Robuchon, Guy Savoy, Eric Frechon, and Pierre Gagnaire a bit more accessible (even if these star chefs rarely cook in their lower-price restaurants) and opens up a vast range of new possibilities for exciting dining.
Like the chefs themselves, Paris diners are breaking away from tradition with renewed enthusiasm. New restaurants, wine bars, and rapidly multiplying épicieries (gourmet grocers) and sandwich shops recognize that not everyone wants a three-course blowout every time they dine out. And because Parisians are more widely traveled than in the past, many ethnic restaurants—notably the best North African, Vietnamese–Laotian, Chinese, Spanish, and Japanese spots—are making fewer concessions to French tastes, resulting in far better food.
Despite opening in the midst of a pandemic, in September 2021, this sumptuous contemporary dining room—tucked away in a stunner of a Belle Époque town house—achieved a Michelin star within five months. Chef Sébastien Sanjou's ingredients all have pedigrees (listed on the menu) for exceptional seasonal fare that's both refined and robust. This discreet black book address is all the rage among discriminating Paris gastronomes.
At the entrance of Merci, a chic concept store, you'll find the perfect spot for a quick lunch or snack (or a place to catch up on the latest French novels) among rows of books and comfy chairs. Highlights include a small soup menu, a risotto of the day, and hearty vegetarian salads. You can also order a freshly pressed juice or iced tea with mint (or a crisp glass of rosé) to wash it all down.
On a nearly hidden street behind the Palais Royal gardens, this tiny wine bar invites customers to perch on metal stools at a narrow bar and enjoy a small but choice selection of wines by the glass and some very good bar snacks like top-notch olives or local Paris ham. Although not a substitute for dinner, it's great for a drink and a nosh on your way to or from somewhere else, including the excellent restaurant upstairs.
Culinary power couple Stéphanie Le Quellec and her husband David teamed up on this classy duplex restaurant set in a residential neighborhood close to the Arc de Triomphe that highlights the bounty of the sea. Le Quellec wisely lets the delicate flavors of the seafood speak for themselves, paired with refined complementary accents. Start with briny oysters fresh from the Brittany coast, followed by scintillating tarama (fish roe) with celery oil, grilled octopus in a creamy harissa sauce, or the catch of the day served with sake-miso beurre blanc. For dessert, the warm deep-dish pecan cookie for two is worth the trip alone. Seafaring cocktails and excellent wines by the bottle and glass round out a memorable meal.
More restaurant than wine bar, this British-owned spot is a stylish haunt for Parisians and visiting gourmands who might stop in for a glass of wine at the oak bar or settle into the wood-beamed dining room. The selection of reinvented classic dishes changes daily and in accordance with the seasons, and while the kitchen closes from 2:30 pm to 7 pm, the bar opens at noon and keeps serving until midnight.
If you're having what is known in French as a crise de foie (liver crisis), the result of overindulging in rich food, this chic Japanese noodle house with a summer terrace and a second dining room upstairs is the perfect antidote. The blond-wood walls soothe the senses, and the freshly made soba (buckwheat noodles), served in soup or with a restorative dipping broth, will give you the courage to face another round of caramelized foie gras.
This contemporary bistro offers inspired, creative cooking with a sense of fun. Chef-owner William Ledeuil, a tireless experimenter, buys heirloom vegetables directly from farmers and tracks down herbs and spices in Asian supermarkets to create a deliberately deconstructed menu featuring raw fish, soups, pastas, and fresh vegetables. You can choose a five-course or a seven-course menu for dinner (€105 or €125 respectively); the two-course lunch menu (43€) is a great value. If on offer (the menu changes constantly and inventively), consider the chicken with dates, sesame, and yuzu, or the scallops in a citrus, turmeric, and bergamot sauce.
There's no shortage of Japanese restaurants around the Louvre, but this one is a cut above much of the competition. The menu has something for every palate, from warming donburi to sushi and sashimi. The black-and-white space is refreshingly bright and modern, and you can perch at one of the counters for a quick bite or settle in at a table. A no-reservations policy at lunchtime means you've got as good a chance as anyone at snagging a seat.
An exquisite jewelbox setting and a Michelin star have placed L'Ecrin at Paris's dining forefront. An ethereal, highly refined cuisine highlights origins, seasons, and delicate flavor pairings, like succulent Breton langoustine with lightly caramelized fennel and a sauce laced with tart Japanese yuzu. Desserts are both luxe and homey, like Riz à l'Imperatrice, an exalted rice pudding with raspberry confit and star-anise ice cream, as well as a luscious take on the humble tarte tatin.
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