13 Best Sights in Rijeka, Kvarner

A fine spot from which to admire the splendors of the Kvarner Bay, the Kastav—11 km (7 miles) northwest of Rijeka—was originally a medieval fortress comprising nine defensive towers. The old hilltop village sits at 1,200 feet and is still home to some 900 residents. The backside of the hilltop village is blanketed by a forest area with biking, hiking, and horseback riding trails leading from the loggia to the woods. The town is a popular venue for regular events throughout the year, from the monthly Zeleni Kastav organic green market to the summer Kastav Blues and Cultural Festival, the Bela Nedeja young white wine festival in October, and the traditional bell ringers during the Carnival season in February. Having been home to wealthy and powerful clans in the past, the tiny town has many splendid buildings from throughout the ages. E-bike rentals are available at the forest entrance.

In a cube-shaped building on the grounds of the Governor's Palace, the museum has more than a dozen different permanent collections that capture the history of the city and the people who have left an indelible mark on it. The collections range from music to visual art and postage stamps, as well as cultural and scientific displays representative of the heritage of this historic port city. One of the most interesting is the Rijeka Torpedo Exhibit, the first of its kind in the world.

The medieval castle was built on the foundations of a prehistoric fort. In the early 1800s, it was bought by an Austrian general of Irish descent, who converted it to include a Greek temple with Doric columns. Today it hosts a popular café, offering stunning views of the Kvarner Bay; throughout the summer, open-air theater performances and concerts take place. Across the street, the pilgrimage church of Sveta Marija (St. Mary) was constructed in 1453 to commemorate the Miracle of Trsat, when angels carrying the humble house of the Virgin Mary are said to have landed here. Although the angels later moved the house to Loreto in Italy, Trsat has remained a place of pilgrimage. The path up to Trsat from the city center takes you close to Titov trg, at a bridge across the Rječina. It passes through a stone gateway, then makes a long steep climb up 538 steps. Local Bus 2 will get you here, too.

Bursting with color and the busyness of an open-air green market, this is the natural starting point for getting acquainted with this port city. It is housed in three large halls, each distinct in its architecture and also in what is sold under its roofs. The most interesting of these halls is the art nouveau fish market, which includes crustacean sculptures on the walls and ceiling by Venetian artist Urbano Bottasso. Surrounding the market are many open-air stalls, mostly manned by women eager to sell their locally grown fresh fruits, vegetables, and other Croatian delicacies. Come early for coffee and people-watching in one of the many surrounding cafés, or come later and have an early lunch or prix-fixe marenda (mid-morning snack) in one of the nearby local eateries, where most offerings come fresh from the market.

Before you leave the market, take a stroll through the small formal park in front of the magnificent Croatian National Theatre, built by Viennese architects Fellner and Helmer in 1885.

Formerly the city's main church and dating back to the Middle Ages, St. Mary's is still known to locals as the "big church." However, many additions and changes now obscure much of the original architecture. The relatively recent updates have not imposed severe geometry, though: the bell tower remains leaning to one side by 40 centimeters or so.

High on a hill facing the Mediterranean sun and a short walk from the city's center, the Governor's Palace affords a grand view over the harbor. Built in 1893 by Hungarian architect Alajos Hauszmann, who also designed Budapest's castle and Palace of Justice, it was done in High Renaissance style and now houses several exhibits and cultural events. The large columned facade communicates the self-confidence of the robust Habsburg empire, as do the numerous statues placed throughout the green area surrounding the palace. The Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian Littoral, which investigates Kvarner's seafaring traditions and cultural heritage, is also housed here. After taking in one of the exhibits, enjoy the garden area surrounding the museum, which sometimes hosts an outdoor summer theater and beer garden.

Designed by specialist Viennese architects Fellner and Helmer, Rijeka's National Theatre opened in 1885. In high summer the theater plays host to a Festival of Summer Nights, held beneath wonderful ceiling paintings by Gustav Klimt and emerging from behind a stage curtain decorated by Croatian artist Oton Gliha. It's worth it to buy a ticket to a performance to experience Croatian culture and see the inside of the theater. 

This Romanesque cathedral is unusual in this part of the world because of its rotunda and the semicircular apse behind the altar. Fine Baroque statues are sheltered by Baroque and Gothic construction. Founded by the Jesuits in 1638, the cathedral was named for Rijeka's patron saint. An 18th-century gallery was reportedly built to protect young novice monks from the tempting sights presented when the local lovelies attended services. You can find a cannonball in the wall at the main entrance, apparently fired from a British ship during the Napoleonic wars. The church is closed every day from noon to 3 pm.

This museum was founded by computer enthusiasts interested in collecting vintage computers and technology from the early days of the technological revolution. The collection includes everything from LEGOs to computers, old game consoles, and calculators. A large part of the mission of the museum is to educate visitors in the areas of science and math as the foundation for understanding technology. The great thing about the museum is that they encourage visitors to peek and poke at the displays not only with their eyes but also with their hands and their minds (hence the name).

Exploring the geology and biology of the region at the Rijeka's Natural History Museum invariably involves holding a sizable chunk of marine life up to the eyes. The shark and ray display here is predictably popular, starring a brigade of stuffed sharks swimming in strict formation while suspended from the ceiling. A multimedia center based on an aquarium adds to the extensive collection of nonmammalian species, some 90,000 specimens in total, but also includes rocks, plants, and other less animated elements of the locality. The botanical garden contributes more exotic plants to the array from the museum's grounds. Considering the fearsome appearance of some of the more fascinating inhabitants of the museum, it may be worth considering putting off a visit here until the end of your stay on the coast, lest your imagination get the better of you while bathing on the beaches.

This enormous stone arch—the oldest structure in the city—is an ancient town gate. Today it's partly engulfed by additions from more recent times, but it was from this site many centuries ago that the chain of mountain fortresses in the region was commanded by the Romans. These days, the Roman elite's enthusiasm for comfort is catered to with a handful of park benches amid what is left of the ancient walls and columns.

The University Library now houses a permanent exhibition about the Glagolitic script. Stone tablets written in the ancient Slavic script, plus more than 120 other items, are permanently exhibited here. Books, paintings, masonry, and frescoes are also displayed. Call in advance to view the exhibition, which is open by appointment only for a small fee.

In this historic square sits the city's former municipal palace, which was built in 1873 and was originally part of an Augustinian monastery. It connects to St. Jerome's Church and the Dominican monastery. The square is named for the resolution that was drawn up here in 1905 and contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia. The square's lemon-meringue buildings cluster around the foot of the city flagpole, erected on a high base in the 16th century and featuring a likeness of the city's patron saint, St. Vitus, holding a scale model of Rijeka protectively in his hand. Many outdoor events are staged here throughout the year.