5 Best Sights in Chimay, Western Wallonia

The traditional home of the Princes of Chimay is a 15th-century, Renaissance-style castle that looms over the lower town. The first defense to stand here was likely built towards the end of the 9th century when this was part of the Frankish Empire. But over the years it has been endlessly rebuilt, including when a fire tore through the building in 1935. Today, it is still occupied by Prince Philippe and his family, and guided tours sometimes bump into them. The real showpiece here is the theater, built in 1863 as a grand neoclassical space wreathed in palm-tree columns and gold- and white-stucco reliefs. It even plays host to monthly jazz and classical concerts (book online). You'll also find minigolf and escape rooms in the grounds. 

Chimay is synonymous with the beer that shares its name. But the brewery that makes it is actually 9 km (5½ miles) south of the village. Here, the monks of the Scourmont Trappist monastery still supervise the production of some of the best cheese and beer in Belgium. They have been here since 1850, when the Princes of Chimay gifted them a space on the plateau. But it's no longer just a small operation. You can find Chimay beer in most of Europe, and even in China these days. Its Red (brown and fruity) and Blue (darker, more bitter) beers are ubiquitous. Yet at the same time, little has changed here. The monks still live a life of seclusion. The abbey is not open to the public, except for retreats, but you can visit the church and the gardens. You can also taste their wares at the nearby bar-restaurant L'Espace Chimay (at the Auberge de Poteaupré), less than half a mile away, where an exhibition (€6) explores the history and workings of the abbey brewery and ends with a tasting. 

A church is likely to have stood here since the 10th century, though the oldest surviving part of the current building is the chancel, which dates from some 300 years later. Like many churches in the region, it is finished in a number of styles, as additions were made over the centuries. The nave is more in the late-Hainaut Gothic design, while the Germanic-looking bell tower was rebuilt in the 18th century with an onion dome and hosts a 26-bell carillon. Look out for the mausoleum of Charles de Croÿ, first prince of Chimay, which is adorned with an alabaster figure of the recumbent royal.

About 3 km (2 miles) north of the village lies the artificial lake of Virelles. It's developed into an important reserve, and each year welcomes the arrival of the only white storks in Wallonia. Its waters are wrapped in hides and nature trails, though early-morning canoe paddles with guides (€30) can yield the best sightings. These tours are run by Aquascope, who also offer guided walks and rent bicycles for exploring the area.