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Ghent has long held a place in the hearts of Belgian gourmands, in part due to the enduring popularity of Gentse waterzooi—a classic Flemish dish of boiled chicken covered in thin strips of leek, carrot, and onion, all swamped in a delicious creamy broth. However, these days the city is causing a very modern stir in the food world thanks to a group of young childhood friends, now chefs, rather cringingly dubbed the "Flemish foodies." Their emergence has turned this old industrial port into something of a culinary destination—the Patershol area is particularly blessed. But away from the glare of Michelin stars, there's still plenty of good, cheap, traditional food to be found, especially of the seafood variety.
At peak times, this enormously popular brasserie in an old warehouse off the Korenmarkt crackles with energy. A giant Greek statue makes an incongruous counterpoint to the marble-top tables, parquet floors, and long oak bar, but there's no denying its craft. Locals rave about the seafood and the oyster bar, or you can choose the "market menu," based on what the chef picked up fresh that morning.
This mouthwatering bakery makes both bread and sweet treats, and has a tearoom on one side for those who want to eat in. Savory filled rolls are available, but most people are here to indulge in the homemade éclairs and fruit tarts.
The owners of this food-sharing joint on bustling Oudburg have managed to make its interior look like an enchanted forest—all green walls, fake branches, and pale-pink flowers lit with clever lighting. The theatrics don't end with the decor, either, as each dish on the four- or six-course tasting menu pit-stops in another culinary realm. From tacos to ceviche, to Spanish-style king prawns, each course barrels along with big flavors that don't always match up, but the quality is good and you can always go à la carte if you want to. But it's all about the experience at Ghent's most Instagrammable eatery.
One of the endearing eccentricities of Ghent is its number of soup-theme cafés. There are four in the center alone: all cheap, satisfying, and popular with students. This is clearly the local pick; by lunchtime, the queues outside are positively daunting. The menu changes regularly but usually dishes up a half-dozen soups, including the likes of creamy leek and Breydal bacon or tomato and meatball, alongside salads and sandwiches.
An enticing café-bar with a long history and, many say, the best setting on the Leie. It lies next to the old sas (a hand-cranked drawbridge over the lock), and this was where the bridge controller once lived---try to arrive in fine weather as the terrace is the big draw, and the café is often closed at other times. The café even contains a small museum of maritime paintings and relics of a time when these waters were among the busiest in Belgium. Now it's just a great spot to rest up when strolling the riverbank between Ooidonk and Deinze.
When art historian-turned-chef Matthieu Beudaert handed in Kortrijk's only Michelin star by closing his restaurant, he decided to go back to basics: gastronomic food at a decent price. Table d'Amis has recently reopened and is no less inspired, with dishes such as breaded veal sweetbreads smoked on a tobacco leaf hinting at the daring below the surface.
Chef Matthias Speybrouck got his start working under mercurial Belgian chef Kobe Desramaults, and he learned well. His modern riverside restaurant has a rather industrial vibe, but it fits the "rough and refined" ethos of the menu, where he digs deep into local produce to create some surprising combinations.
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