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Ghent has long held a place in the hearts of Belgian gourmands, in part due to the enduring popularity of Gentse waterzooi—a classic Flemish dish of boiled chicken covered in thin strips of leek, carrot, and onion, all swamped in a delicious creamy broth. However, these days the city is causing a very modern stir in the food world thanks to a group of young childhood friends, now chefs, rather cringingly dubbed the "Flemish foodies." Their emergence has turned this old industrial port into something of a culinary destination—the Patershol area is particularly blessed. But away from the glare of Michelin stars, there's still plenty of good, cheap, traditional food to be found, especially of the seafood variety.
You'll find an absolute sea of bakeries selling mattentaarts, the iconic local curd pastry that errs decidedly on the sweet and dry side. Everyone has their favorite bakery, though the more mean-spirited might argue there's little difference in quality. Nevertheless, this artisanal bakers high up on Vestin is well-loved by locals, and makes a fine pick-me-up when walking the Muur.
This café-bar on the market square is popular among cyclists, as any glance at its walls—festooned in photos, jerseys, and memorabilia from the Tour of Flanders—will tell you. Owned by a former professional rider, Frederik Penne, it's a good spot to grab a coffee, a beer, or a few ideas for places to pedal in the area.
Drop by Het Groot Vleeshuis (Great Meat Hall) for coffee or lunch and a little shopping. The wood-beamed hall dates from the early 15th century and was used as a covered meat market. It's an impressive blend of ancient and modern; the metal-and-glass restaurant has been cleverly constructed without affecting the old hall itself. Both the shop and restaurant focus on East Flemish specialties such as Ganda ham, local mustard, and O'de Flandres jenever. The food hall is open Tuesday--Sunday 10--6.
This mouthwatering bakery makes both bread and sweet treats, and has a tearoom on one side for those who want to eat in. Savory filled rolls are available, but most people are here to indulge in the homemade éclairs and fruit tarts.
One of the endearing eccentricities of Ghent is its number of soup-theme cafés. There are four in the center alone: all cheap, satisfying, and popular with students. This is clearly the local pick; by lunchtime, the queues outside are positively daunting. The menu changes regularly but usually dishes up a half-dozen soups, including the likes of creamy leek and Breydal bacon or tomato and meatball, alongside salads and sandwiches.
An enticing café-bar with a long history and, many say, the best setting on the Leie. It lies next to the old sas (a hand-cranked drawbridge over the lock), and this was where the bridge controller once lived---try to arrive in fine weather as the terrace is the big draw, and the café is often closed at other times. The café even contains a small museum of maritime paintings and relics of a time when these waters were among the busiest in Belgium. Now it's just a great spot to rest up when strolling the riverbank between Ooidonk and Deinze.
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