Ghent and the Leie Restaurants

Ghent has long held a place in the hearts of Belgian gourmands, in part due to the enduring popularity of Gentse waterzooi—a classic Flemish dish of boiled chicken covered in thin strips of leek, carrot, and onion, all swamped in a delicious creamy broth. However, these days the city is causing a very modern stir in the food world thanks to a group of young childhood friends, now chefs, rather cringingly dubbed the "Flemish foodies." Their emergence has turned this old industrial port into something of a culinary destination—the Patershol area is particularly blessed. But away from the glare of Michelin stars, there's still plenty of good, cheap, traditional food to be found, especially of the seafood variety.

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  • 1. 'T Oud Sashuis

    $

    An enticing café-bar with a long history and, many say, the best setting on the Leie. It lies next to the old sas (a drawbridge over the lock), and this was where the bridge controller once lived. The café even contains a small museum of maritime paintings and relics of a time when these waters were among the busiest in Belgium. Now it's just a great spot to rest up when strolling the riverbank between Ooidonk and Deinze. Try the pate, which has been flavored with the house Schobiak beer.    

    Hellestraat 20, Deinze, Flanders, 9800, Belgium
    0476-810--114

    Known For

    • A welcome rest stop while walking the Leie
    • House-brewed beers
    • A blissful setting by the water's edge
  • 2. Bakkerij De Vesten

    $

    You'll find an absolute sea of bakeries selling mattentaarts, the iconic local curd pastry that errs decidedly on the sweet and dry side. Everyone has their favorite bakery, though the more mean-spirited might argue there's little difference in quality. Nevertheless, this artisanal bakers high up on Vestin is well-loved by locals, and makes a fine pick-me-up when walking the Muur.   

    Vesten 92, Geraardsbergen, Flanders, 9500, Belgium
    054-412--313

    Known For

    • Friendly staff
    • There's a nice selection of other cakes
    • The finest mattentaarts in town

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Tues.
  • 3. Happy Days Cafe

    $

    This lovely family-run café is nestled in the corner of the Vlasmarkt. There's a good choice of teas, coffees, and great hunks of homemade cakes to tide you over. 

    Vlasmarkt 33/7, Dendermonde, Flanders, 9200, Belgium
    052-577--977

    Known For

    • Nice little terrace off the main street
    • Good choice (and portion size) of cakes
    • Well-made coffees

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon.
  • 4. Het Groot Vleeshuis

    $

    Drop by Het Groot Vleeshuis (Great Meat Hall) for coffee or lunch and a little shopping. The wood-beamed hall dates from the early 15th century and was used as a covered meat market. It's an impressive blend of ancient and modern; the metal-and-glass restaurant has been cleverly constructed without affecting the old hall itself. Both the shop and restaurant focus on East Flemish specialties such as Ganda ham, local mustard, and O'de Flandres jenever. The food hall is open Tuesday--Sunday 10--6.

    Groentenmarkt 7, B9000, Unknown
    09-223–2324

    Known For

    • A wonderful setting in a medieval marketplace
    • Traditional Flemish cuisine

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.
  • 5. Mokabon

    $

    Just off the Korenmarkt, the scent of fresh coffee beans is enough to draw you to this charming backstreet roastery, complete with a café, neighboring take-away stall, and decent waffles.

    35-37 Donkersteeg, B9000, Unknown
    09-225–7195

    Known For

    • Coffee and waffles

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
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  • 6. Mokabon

    $

    Just off the Korenmarkt, the scent of fresh coffee beans is enough to draw you to this charming backstreet roastery complete with a café, neighboring take-away stall, and decent waffles.

    Donkersteeg 35, Ghent, Flanders, 9000, Belgium
    09-225--7195

    Known For

    • It's the city's most reliable hit of caffeine
    • A great choice of roasted blends
    • It's a good place to sit with a book

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
  • 7. Soup'r

    $

    One of the endearing eccentricities of Ghent is its number of soup-theme cafés. There are four in the center alone: all cheap, satisfying, and popular with students. This is clearly the local pick; by lunchtime, the queues outside are positively daunting. The menu changes regularly but usually dishes up a half-dozen soups, including the likes of creamy leek and Breydal bacon or tomato and meatball, alongside salads and sandwiches.  

    Sint-Niklaasstraat 9, Ghent, Flanders, 9000, Belgium

    Known For

    • It's just good, cheap food
    • The choice of soups changes regularly
    • It's a popular spot for locals

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon.

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