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Through much of Carinthia you'll discover that, other than simple Gasthäuser (wine taverns), most dining spots are not independent establishments but belong to country inns. Carinthia's peasant tradition is reflected in its culinary specialties, such as Kärntner Käsnudeln (giant ravioli stuffed with a ricotta-like local cheese, and a whisper of mint), Sterz (polenta served either sweet or salty), and Hauswürste (smoked or air-cured hams and sausages, available at butcher shops).
Styria, bordering on Slovenia, has a hearty cuisine with Slavic overtones; a typical dish is Steirisches Brathuhn (roast chicken turned on a spit). The intensely nutty Kürbiskernöl (pumpkinseed oil) is used in many soup and pasta dishes, as well as in salad dressings, or to top off vanilla ice cream.
A tiny old house turned coffee shop in the center of the city, Cafe Schwalbennest serves traditional Austrian cakes such as homemade sweet poppy seed and cheese-curd tort. It's also a great breakfast spot with regionally sourced cheese and meat. Green shutters on a red facade make Cafe Schwalbennest easy to spot, and there is an upstairs patio overlooking the River Mur, which runs through Graz. But beware, with only three tables upstairs, it can be difficult to snag a spot.
Joining the expanding enterprise of Sacher cafés in Austria's most prominent cities, Graz's Sacher is everything you would expect—lots of gilt, crimson upholstery, sparkling chandeliers, and Viennese dessert, including the rich chocolate Sacher torte. If you're hungry for a meal, there are breakfast, lunch, and dinner specialties. Try the Frank Sacher potato soup or their original truffle ham. In the adjoining Sacher Wein-Snackbar, you can choose tasty snacks to blend with a full-bodied Austrian white wine or champagne.
