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In cosmopolitan San Juan, European, Asian, Middle Eastern, and chic fusion eateries vie for your attention, with family-owned restaurants specializing in seafood or comida criolla (creole cooking, or local Puerto Rican food). U.S. chains such as McDonald's and Subway compete with chains like Pollo Tropical and El Mesón, which specialize in local cuisine. Many of the most innovative chefs here have restaurants in the city's large hotels, but don't be shy about venturing into stand-alone establishments—many concentrated in Condado and along Calles Fortaleza and San Sebastián in Old San Juan. Old San Juan is also home to a number of notable new restaurants and cafés, offering more artisanal-style cuisine—crop-to-cup coffee, rustic homemade pizzas, and creative vegetarian food—at affordable prices. There’s a radiant pride in what the local land can provide, and these enthusiastic young restaurateurs are redefining what Puerto Rican food is, bite by tasty bite.
The dress code varies greatly from place to place, although a restaurant's price category can be taken as a good indication. For less expensive places anything but beachwear is fine; ritzier spots will expect collared shirts and long pants for men ("jacket and tie" requirements are rare) and chic attire for women. When in doubt, do as the Puerto Ricans often do and dress up.
For breakfast outside of your hotel, cafés or panaderías (local bakeries) are your best bets. It's rare for such establishments to close between breakfast and lunch; it's slightly more common for restaurants to close between lunch and dinner. Although some places don't accept reservations, it's always a good idea to make them for dinner whenever possible. This is especially true during the busy season from November through April and on weekends at any time of the year.
It's an exciting time for pizza in San Juan and one of the newest and most delicious additions to the scene is La Santurcina. Brought to you by the owners of the upscale restaurant Vianda, this full-service pizza joint is a pizza-churning, bustling machine that's always packed. Start with the fried olives and wings followed by any of the creative pies. Don't miss the zucchini with ricotta. They don't take reservations so get there early.
Day and night, locals flock to Pirilo to indulge in San Juan's finest pizza. Owner Eduardo Rubio makes everything from scratch, most notably the crust, which uses a 300-year-old starter as its base. Ask to sit on the second floor, which has substantial seating, high ceilings, and a bar focused on craft beers. The menu ranges from classics like the margherita to a pie inspired by the local tripleta sandwich. Given the nightly crowds, it's clear that others are in on the secret: there may be a wait, but everyone will be having such a good time that you won't mind, especially with more than 50 brews on the list.
