El Cabito
The simple, off-the-grid palapa seems to exhale with a breezy, unbothered joviality; bring your camera: from this cliffside perch the sea eagle's view of endless ocean makes you feel as if you're at the edge of the world (and in season it's ideal for whale-watching). The menu offers something more creative than the standard fish in coconut sauce: delicious calamari, seafood paella or stew, or stir-fried squid or conch. Vegetarians are well accommodated, too, but you have to call in advance if you want fresh fish, lobster, or paella. The long wait for your food is best done in a hammock. Remote, it's a rough ride up coastal dirt roads but still accessible with a regular vehicle. You can even stay overnight, as there are several cabanas and a renovated tree house.
