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Northern Bangkok is worth dining in only if you happen to be in the neighborhood for sightseeing, or if you really want to get to a part of the river that's off the beaten track.
Inundated with colors, sounds, and smells, this is where Bangkok's top Thai chefs shop for quality produce, herbs, and cooking gear. Owned and operated by a farmers' collective, the market's food court is a legendary spot where spicy Thai fare is scooped onto plastic plates; you pick up the cutlery from trays, and grab a seat at one of the tables in the center.
An alley near the National Library leads to this off-the-beaten-track restaurant on a pier overlooking the Chao Phraya River. Kaloang Home Kitchen, which is attached to a guesthouse of the same name, might not look like much with its simple wooden chairs and tables, but it's a local favorite for waterfront breezes that keep things reasonsably cool, as well as generous grilled seafood platters and giant river prawns. The outdoor terrace affords a good view of Rama VIII Bridge to the south, especially at night when the bridge is illuminated.
