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Touristy Khao San Road is north of the Old City, though the tame Thai food available in this backpacker mecca is nothing to go out of your way for. Don't be afraid to sample the street food in the alleyways away from Khao San Road—it often makes for a memorable meal.
In a century-old building across from Santichaiprakarn Park on the Chao Phraya, a short walk from Khao San Road, this little two-story restaurant serves Indian and Thai-Muslim cuisine. The specialty, as the name suggests, is sizzling mataba, unleavened flatbread filled with your choice of vegetables, chicken, beef, fish, or seafood. The oxtail soup is also highly recommended.
Across the street from Wat Bowonniwet, this humble eatery is famed for high-quality khao tom, rice soup served with a wide variety of Chinese-Thai dishes, including excellent phat phak bung (water spinach stir-fried with chili and garlic), jap chai (mixed-vegetable stew), and pet phalo (five-spice roast duck in gravy). This is a good late-evening eating choice, since it's open daily from 3:30 pm to 11 pm.
The only restaurant in Banglamphu focusing on northern Thai cuisine is tucked away in a quiet corner of Rambutri Road not far from Khao San. Khao soi, a northern Thai dish of egg noodles in a mild curry broth, is a house specialty. Madame Musur is good for a late night bite as it's open till midnight.
