Founded in 1869, this shrine is dedicated to approximately 2½ million Japanese, Taiwanese, and Koreans who have died since then in war or military service. As the Japanese constitution expressly renounces both militarism and state sponsorship of religion, Yasukuni has been a center of stubborn political debate, particularly since 1978, when a shrine official added the names of several class-A war criminals to the list. Numerous prime ministers have visited the shrine since 1979, causing a political chill between Japan and its close neighbors, Korea and China, who suffered under Japanese colonialism.
Despite all this, hundreds of thousands of Japanese come here every year to honor lost friends and relatives. These visits are most frenzied on August 15, the anniversary of the conclusion of World War II, when former soldiers and ultra-right-wing groups descend upon the grounds en masse.
The shrine isn't one structure but a complex that includes the Main Hall and the Hall of Worship—both built in the simple, unadorned style of the ancient Shinto shrines at Ise—and the Yushukan, a museum of documents and war memorabilia. Refurbished in 2002, the Yushukan presents Japan at its most ambivalent—if not unrepentant—about its more recent militaristic past.
Critics charge that the museum's newer exhibits glorify the nation's role in the Pacific War as a noble struggle for independence; certainly there's an agenda here that's hard to reconcile with Japan's firm postwar rejection of militarism as an instrument of national policy. Many Japanese visitors are moved by the displays, which contain things such as the last letters and photographs of young kamikaze pilots, while others find the Yushukan a cautionary, rather than uplifting, experience.
Although some exhibits have English labels and notes, the English isn't very helpful; most objects, however, speak clearly enough for themselves. Rooms on the second floor house an especially fine collection of medieval swords and armor.
The shrine is also home to the Noh stage and, in the far western corner, a sumo-wrestling ring, where matches are held in April, during the first of Yasukuni's three annual festivals. Pick up an English-language pamphlet and simplified map of the shrine just inside the grounds. Visiting on a Sunday offers a chance to forage at a flea market that runs from morning until mid-afternoon.