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Tokyo is undoubtedly one of the most exciting dining cities in the world. Seasonal ingredients reign supreme here, and there's an emphasis on freshness—not surprising given raw seafood is the cornerstone of sushi. And though Tokyoites still stubbornly resist foreign concepts in many fields, the locals have embraced outside culinary styles with gusto.
While newer restaurants targeting younger diners strive for authenticity in everything from New York–style bagels to Neapolitan pizza, it is still not uncommon to see menus serving East-meets-West concoctions such as spaghetti topped with cod roe and shredded seaweed. That said, the city’s best French and Italian establishments can hold their own on a global scale. Naturally, there's also excellent Japanese cuisine available throughout the city, ranging from the traditional to nouveau, which can be shockingly expensive.
That is not to imply that every meal in the city will drain your finances—the current rage is all about "B-kyu gurume" (B-class gourmet), restaurants that fill the gap between nationwide chains and fine cuisine, serving tasty Japanese and Asian food without the extra frills of tablecloths and lacquerware. All department stores and most skyscrapers have at least one floor of restaurants that are accessible, affordable, and reputable.
Asakusa is known for its tempura, and Tsukiji prides itself on its fresh sashimi, which is available in excellent quality throughout the city. Ramen is a passion for many locals, who travel across town or stand in line for an hour in order to sit at the counter of a shop rumored to have the perfect balance of noodles and broth. Even the neighborhood convenience stores will offer colorful salads, sandwiches, and a selection of beer and sake. There have been good and affordable Indian and Chinese restaurants in the city for decades. As a result of increased travel by the Japanese to more exotic locations, Thai, Vietnamese, and Turkish restaurants have popped up around the city. When in doubt, note that Tokyo's top-rated international hotels also have some of the city's best places to eat and drink.
An outpost of a New Zealand roastery, this small, friendly café serves excellent espressos, flat whites, and cappuccinos, plus simple snacks like cookies and toasted sandwiches. It occupies a repurposed wooden warehouse with indoor seating, but, if the weather is nice, grab a to-go drink and a slice of banana cake and walk a few minutes east to Kiba Park, a lovely green spot to while away an hour.
Look for the cute neon bear sign to find what is possibly the neighborhood's best coffee shop, since, aside from some branded merchandise, coffee is the only thing that's sold. It's a tiny, low-key place with a simple design, including old wooden benches that make the place feel as if it's both in the now and from long ago.
This Australian-style café near Coredo Muromachi is a casual hangout serving potent espressos and milky flat whites. For a quick bite to eat, try a meat pie, or stop by for the money-saving breakfast, which features a coffee and toasted sandwich for ¥650.
Associated with the funky clothing shop just around the corner and part of an international chain, this bright, open café serves high-quality coffee, cakes, snacks, and gelato. It also has some Kitsuné-branded goods on hand.
Prominently standing at the edge of Yanaka, just a short walk to the west from the National Museum, this historical café is a popular stop for lunch or a light snack. A century old, the café has been stylishly renovated and serves homemade sandwiches, curries, cakes, and kaki gori, a traditional treat of flavored shaved ice. The first floor has a bar and dark wood tables, while the second is an airy Japanese-style tatami room with low tables. Although Kayaba isn't usually too crowded in the morning, expect to line up if you arrive at lunchtime.
Drop by this branch of a hipster chain for hand-dripped coffee made with house-roasted beans or lattes with artistic patterns in the foam. If you're really into your coffee, try the taster set to compare three different beans. Despite its name, this place is entirely smoke-free.
Maid cafés aren't everyone’s cup of tea, but, if you want to try one, the main branch of Japan’s biggest such chain is as reputable a place as any. All manner of people come to be served by, and have their picture taken with, young women in French maid outfits who affect extreme levels of kawaii (cute) and occasionally break into song and dance. Menu highlights include simple pasta dishes, omuraisu (rice omelets), and colorful parfaits; the lengthy beverage list has coffee and juices as well as cocktails.
Known for its classic hayashi (hashed beef) rice, lemon herbal tea, and waffles with a side of fluffy ice cream, Maruzen Cafe is the perfect mid-afternoon stop. Its location on the third floor of Maruzen Bookstore and sleek, dark wooden furniture add to the homey atmosphere.
By day, this pleasant café offers outdoor seating and brioche French toast with great coffee just minutes from Tokyo Midtown and the museums of the Roppongi Art Triangle. From 5 pm, the menu changes to more expensive grilled meats and pastas.
Situated near Shimokitazawa Station, Norah's is a great place to do some people-watching while enjoying a coffee (including an Irish coffee if you'd like) and a snack. It also serves tea, wine, and beer.
Seating is limited at this small stand near Naka Meguro Station, but the baristas are extremely knowledgeable about how to properly prepare espressos, hand-drip coffees, and lattes. And the name of this chain of roasteries isn't a misspelling of "omnibus," but rather a playful mix of "oni" (devil) and "bus."
The Roastery serves up some good single-origin coffee. Tucked away along Cat Street, a shopping street connecting Omotesando to Shibuya, it offers outdoor seating, giving you a place to watch the shoppers stream by.
Satisfying the need for light, healthy food that is neither raw nor fried, this airy but rather nondescript bakery and café in the ultra-trendy Dover Street Market serves up a tasty selection of salads, quiches, vegetables, and other deli-style dishes. Although the interior's rows of tables and blank white walls can feel a bit too much like a hip reinterpretation of a school cafeteria, Rose Bakery is a good bet for a quick lunch or pastry while out wandering the Ginza area.
On Kappabashi-dori, just north of the Kama-Asa knife store, this café has a very hipster feel thanks to its stark concrete walls and occasional in-store art exhibitions. The menu includes specialty coffees as well as organic matcha and ginger lemonade.
East Tokyo has some serious artisanal coffee credentials, owing to the cafés of the Kiyosumi and Kiba neighborhoods, and now—thanks to this Aussie-run roastery—the Ryogoku neighborhood as well. You'll find this spot in a battered old warehouse, a few minutes northeast of the Sumida Hokusai Museum.
For a quick caffeine break, Verve serves coffee made using single-origin beans from around the world in fashionable, but laidback surrounds. They also have herb teas, sandwiches, and sweet treats like carrot cake and vegan cookies.
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