Takamiya Ryokan Miyamaso
This more-than-300-year-old Japanese inn has an inviting yet sophisticated atmosphere and offers soft thermal waters, very attentive staff, and in winter, the chance to see Zao's famous "ice monsters"—those fabulous frozen pillars sculpted by blizzards. The smell of sulfur wafts through the air as you approach the inn, the low-beamed interior of which has changed little in centuries. Each room is different, but the most luxurious are the suites in the annex, recently refurbished and each with a private bath; ask about rooms with Japanese-type decor but Western-style beds.